Overview: Basic Cosmetic Certification and General Criteria

View Printer Friendly Version

HSCG Basic Cosmetic Certification requires the submission of three (3) cosmetic samples which must meet very exact specifications. There is a detailed criteria for evaluation, which specifies the points for each aspect of the product, labeling, and required documentation (see below). Each product may receive up to 100 points; 85 points is required for the product to pass. Every product must pass on its own merit in order to pass the Product Sample portion of the HSCG Cosmetic Certification Basic Level.

These are the terms and concepts that a person taking the HSCG Basic Cosmetic Maker Exam would be expected to know and understand.

General Knowledge

Acid.

When an acid dissolves in water, the pH of the solution is less than 7. This solution is considered acidic.

Alkali.

When an alkali dissolves in water, the pH of the solution is greater than 7. This solution is considered alkaline. Alkali is a synonym for base.

Avoirdupois Ounce.

Abbreviated oz, is a unit of weight normally used for measuring liquids. It is equal to the weight of one fluid ounce of water.

Base.

When a base dissolves in water, the pH of the solution is greater than 7. This solution is considered basic. Base is a synonym for alkaline.

Butters.

Triglycerides that are typically solid at room temperature with a melting point just below that of the human body.

Caustic.

The corrosive effect of a chemical on another material or living tissue. Caustic can refer to an acid or a base, but is typically used to describe the action of a base.

Fixed Oil.

An oil that can be heated without volatilizing or evaporating at atmospheric pressure. Common cosmetic fixed oils include coconut, palm and olive oils.

Flash Point.

The lowest temperature at which a liquid may be ignited. The ignition source might be a spark, flame, or hot surface.

Gross Weight.

Total weight of the container and contents.

Melt Point.

The temperature at which a solid becomes a liquid.

Net Weight.

Weight of the contents in a container, not counting the weight of the container or lid.

pH.

Refers to the acidity or basicity of a chemical typically dissolved in water. The measurement scale goes from 0 (strongly acidic) to 14 (strongly basic) with pH of 7 representing neutral condition. Alkaline water solutions have pH values higher than 7.0 and acidic water solutions have pH values lower than 7.0. Neutral water has a pH of 7.0.

Tare.

Weight of an empty vessel or container. The tare weight is subtracted from the gross weight to get the net weight.

Temper.

To bring to a desired consistency, texture or hardness. In the case of shea and other butters, tempering the butter helps alleviate the graininess found when the fatty acids in shea butter are allowed to remain separate upon solidifying.

Scent/Additives

Additives.

Any ingredient added in small amounts to a cosmetic formula to improve, strengthen or otherwise alter it. Examples of additives in a cosmetic formula are colorants, fragrances, herbs, vitamin complexes and preservatives.

Essential Oil.

An undiluted volatile oil extracted from plant matter by distillation, expression, or solvent extraction.

Flavor Oil.

Aromatic, highly concentrated fragrance oils specifically designed to be safe for use in food and products that may be ingested.

Fragrance Oil.

A blend of aromatic chemicals, synthetic or natural, that may be diluted with a carrier such as propylene glycol, vegetable oil, or mineral oil.

Regulatory

Batch Record.

A checklist and summary of all actions actually taken when producing a batch of product based on a Master Formula.

Complaint File.

A record of a customer’s complaint, the date of the complaint and the action taken to address the complaint.

Master Formula.

A document or set of documents stipulating the starting materials with their quantities and the packaging materials, together with a description of the methods and safety measures required to produce a specified quantity of a finished product as well as the processing instructions, including the in-process controls.

Net or Net Contents.

The amount of product not including the container, which may be required to be stated as weight or as volume, depending upon the product.

SDS.

The abbreviation for Safety Data Sheet (previously called Material Safety Data Sheet or MSDS). The sheet contains up to 16 categories of information on the hazardous properties of the material, first aid measures, spill containment and cleanup procedures, disposal considerations, regulatory information, and other important information. The sheets are available from vendors who sell these materials. For each material used by the soapmaker, a SDS should be available for reference by the soapmaker, employees, or emergency responders.

United States

CPSC.

An abbreviation for the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), an independent US Government agency that protects the public from unreasonable risks of serious injury or death from thousands of types of consumer products under its jurisdiction, including soap.

FDA or USFDA.

The abbreviation for the Food and Drug Administration. An agency of Health and Human services charged with the duty to inspect, test, approve, and set safety standards for foods and food additives, drugs, biologics, cosmetics, household and medical devices, veterinary products, tobacco products, and devices that emit radiation.

FTC.

The abbreviation for the Federal Trade Commission, the US government agency responsible for enforcing the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act, including the “Made in the USA” slogan. The agency also accepts and investigates complaints of fraud in commerce, including non-receipt of items purchased online.

NIST.

The acronym for the National Institute of Standards and Technology, a division of the US Department of Commerce responsible for enforcing laws and regulations regarding product labeling and net weight.

USDA.

The abbreviation for the United States Department of Agriculture, which regulates animal care products and organic products.

USDOT.

The abbreviation for the United States Department of Transportation, the regulatory agency responsible for enforcing laws regarding the transportation of hazardous chemicals on US interstate highways.

These are basic references & resources which should provide a cosmetic maker with the knowledge necessary to prepare for the HSCG Basic Cosmetic Maker Certification Exam. Note: Links generally open in a new window or tab.

General Knowledge

Books:

Ahnet, Petra. Beeswax Alchemy: How to Make Your Own Soap, Candles, Balms, Creams and Salves from the Hive. Quarry Books: February 15, 2015.

Family Traditions Publishing. The Bath and Body Book: DIY Bath Bombs, Bath Salts, Body Butter and Body Scrubs. Family Traditions Publishing: November 5, 2014. (Available at Amazon; click here)

Additional books available in the HSCG Store.

Websites:

Brambleberry. Soap Queen. Lip Product Tutorials

Chemists Corner, Practical Cosmetic Formulating.

From Nature With Love, Recipe Database

HSCG. Cut to the Trace Ezine

HSCG Learning Library: How to Make Lip Balm

Making Soap, Cosmetics & Candles Magazine

Saffire Blue, Inc. Formulary

Swift Craft Monkey

Health and Safety:

Environment, Health, and Safety Online. Definition of Terms Used in Material Safety Data Sheets

Interactive Learning Paradigms Incorporated. Definition of Hazardous Materials Identification System (HMIS) Terms.

(M)SDS Hyper Glossary Index.

(M)SDS FAQs: Regulations.

Good Manufacturing Practices

Books:

Gale, Marie. Good Manufacturing Practices for Soap and Cosmetic Handrafters. Cinnabar Press: Broadbent, Oregon, 2012. (Available in the HSCG Store; click here)

Websites:

ASEAN Cosmetics Association. Good Manufacturing Practices Training Modules.

Health Canada/Consumer Product Safety. Good Manufacturing Practices for Cosmetic Products

U.S. FDA/CFSAN. Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practice Inspection Checklist (2008).

U.S. FDA/CFSAN. Draft Guidance: Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practice (2013).

International Standards Organization. ISO 22716:2007 Cosmetics -- Good Manufacturing Practices. (Available from ISO.org; click here)

HSCG How-To Library: Legal Compliance

Labeling, Cosmetic Regulations

Books:

Gale, Marie. Soap and Cosmetic Labeling: How to Follow the Rules and Regs Explained in Plain English. Cinnabar Press, 3rd Edition: Oregon, 2015. (Available in the HSCG Store; click here)

Personal Care Products Council. Labeling Manual, 9th Edition (Available from the Personal Care Products Council; click here)

Websites:

US FDA. FDA Authority Over Cosmetics

US FDA. Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics

US FDA. Key Legal Concepts: Interstate Commerce, Adulterated, and Misbranded

US FDA. Cosmetic Labeling Guide

US FDA. Small Businesses & Homemade Cosmetics: Fact Sheet

US FDA. Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act)

US FDA. Labeling Regulations: CFR Title 21, Part 701

US FDA. Fragrances in Cosmetics

Health Canada/Consumer Product Safety. Labelling of Cosmetics

Health Canada/Consumer Product Safety. Guide to Cosmetic Ingredient Labelling

Health Canada/Consumer Product Safety. Cosmetics. Regulatory Information

Competition Bureau Canada. Guide to the Consumer Packaging and Labelling Act and Regulations

European Commission/Enterprise and Industry. Cosmetic Ingredients

European Commission/Enterprise and Industry. Regulation (ED) No 1223/2009 on Cosmetic Products

Additional Materials:

More materials will be developed as time permits. Suggestions for additional certification study materials should be sent HSCG Certification Director at certification@soapguild.org.