Certification Resources: Advanced Cosmetic

These are the terms and concepts that a person taking the HSCG Advanced Cosmetic Maker Exam would be expected to know and understand.

Adulterated

A cosmetic that:

1. Contains or is contained in a substance which may make the product harmful to consumers under customary conditions; or
2. Consists in whole or in part any filthy, putrid or decomposed substance; or
3. Is manufactured or kept under insanitary conditions where it may have become contaminated, or where it may have been made injurious to health; or
4. Is not a hair dye and it bears or contains color additives not permitted for the intended use.

Anhydrous

Containing little or no water. Body butters, lip balms and bath fizzies are all considered anhydrous products.

Antioxidant

Natural and synthetic ingredients to help retard oxidative rancidity. They should be used at the first opportunity because they will not reverse rancidity once it has begun. Antioxidants do not protect products from microbial contamination such as bacteria yeast and molds.

Color Additive

Any material or ingredient used to impart a color to a cosmetic. In the European Union, Canada and the United States, only approved color additives may be used in cosmetics. Some color additives are limited in the amount that may be used or the body parts they may come in contact with. An ingredient that changes the color of the product may be exempt from the definition of a color additive only if the color is clearly unimportant in the appearance, value, marketability or consumer acceptability is concerned. It is not enough to warrant exemption if the purpose is other than imparting color, the color must be unimportant.

Contaminate

To make impure or unclean by contact or mixture. A contaminant may be biological (such as bacteria or ants), physical (such as a hair clip or dust), or chemical (such as detergent residue).

Descending Order of Predominance

Ingredients ordered from largest to smallest by percentage in the product as measured by weight. It is the general and always acceptable order of listing ingredients on a label in most areas of the world.

Dispersible

A solid that disintegrates in a liquid into minute particles. Pigments are dispersible.

Emulsifier

A product or agent containing both water loving (hydrophilic) and water hating (hydrophobic) components. They stabilize ingredients that would normally separate out from one other (such as oil and water) into a cohesive product.

Emulsion

The suspension of a liquid in another liquid that normally cannot be combined, by slowly adding one ingredient to another with vigorous agitation. This suspends tiny droplets of one liquid through another.

Fat

Triglycerides that are generally solid at room temperature. Tallow, palm oil, and lard are examples of fats.

Fatty Acids

: A molecule that has a saturated or unsaturated carbon chain, typically of 4 to 28 carbons, with a carboxylic acid group at one end. Common fatty acides include stearic, lauric, palmitic, aleic and linoleic.

Fractionated Coconut Oil

Also referred to as liquid coconut oil is obtained via fractionation. Fractionation separates the different types of fatty acids found in coconut oil. The long chain fatty acids are removed and the medium chain capric and caprylic fatty acids are retained. Fractionated coconut oil is not edible. It is odorless, colorless and very light and thin. It has an extremely long shelf life.

Hydrogenated Oil

An oil that has its unsaturated fatty acids changed to saturated fatty acids by adding hydrogen to the double bonds, thus converting them to single bonds.

INCI

The acronym for International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients. It is a systematic, internationally agreed upon method for naming cosmetic ingredients for labeling purposes. The INCI naming standard is accepted in the European Union and Canada. In the US, the INCI standard is accepted except that the common English (not Latin) name is required for botanical ingredients.

Lauric Acid

A saturated medium chain fatty acid with no double bonds. Coconut oil contains high amounts of lauric acid.

Linoleic Acid

An unsaturated long chain fatty acid with two double bonds. Hemp oil contains high amounts of linoleic acid.

Palmitic Acid

A fatty acid with a saturated carbon chain of 16 carbons. Palm oil contains high amounts of palmitic acid.

MCT Oil

MCT is the acronym for medium chain triglycerides. It is obtained via fractionation, usually from coconut or palm kernel oil where the long chains are removed and the medium chain caprylic and capric acids remain. MCT oil is edible. It is odorless, colorless and very light and thin. It has an extremely long shelf life.

Microbial rancidity

When microorganisms such as bacteria, yeast and mold use their enzymes to break down the chemical structure of a fat or oil. The result is the typical rancid odor, color and destabilization of the product. Water needs to be present for this to occur.

Misbranded

A cosmetic label that is false or misleading or does not bear required information, or the container of the cosmetic is made or filled in a deceptive manner. If a material fact is not revealed on the label, the cosmetic may also be misbranded.

Mixed Tocopherols

A natural blend of vitamin E; consisting of alpha, beta, gamma and delta tocopherols. They have many properties, but are widely used in place of synthetic antioxidants to help preserve the shelf life and stability of cosmetics. They have twice the antioxidant power as their synthetic counterpart.

Oleic Acid

An unsaturated long chain fatty acid with one double bond. Olive oil contains high amounts of oleic acid.

Oil

Triglycerides that are typically liquid at room temperature. Olive oil, almond oil and avocado oil are examples of oils.

Oxidative Rancidity

When the oxygen in the air reacts with a fat or oil, the result is the typical rancid odor, color and destabilization of the product. Heat, light and trace metals increase the rate of this reaction.

Polysorbates

Nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers used in foods and cosmetics. Numbers following polysorbates refer to the type of fatty acid in the formula. Polysorbate 20 contains lauric acid, 80 contain oleic and 60 contains stearic.

Preservative

Any substances which are exclusively or mainly intended to inhibit the development of microorganisms in a cosmetic product. (Article 2 (l) of the European Regulation 1223/2009). Preservatives are essential for a formula containing water.

ROE

Acronym for rosemary oleoresin extract; a thick viscous, slightly herbaceous solvent extract of the rosemary plant. The carnosal and carnosic acid found in the extract give ROE natural antioxidant potency.

Saturated Fatty Acids

A fatty acid that has only single bonds between the carbon atoms of its carbon chain. Tallow, lard and palm oil are examples of saturated fatty acids.

Stearic Acid

A saturated long chain fatty acid with no double bonds. Shea butter contains high amounts of stearic acid.

Soluble

A solid that completely dissolves in a liquid and loses its own form. FD&C dyes are soluble.

Triglyceride

: An ester derived from three fatty acid molecules with one glycerol molecule. Commonly found in oils or fats; they can be solid or liquid at room temperature.

Unsaponifiables

The hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols and pigments that make up in large part the nutrients of the oil or fat. Examples of unsaponifiables include tocopherols (vitamin E) and carotenoids (vitamin A). Shea butter and avocado oil are well known for being rich in unsaponifiables.

Unsaturated Fatty Acids

A fatty acid that has one or more double bonds between the carbon atoms of its carbon chain.

Water-based Formula

A product or solution using or having water as a medium or main ingredient. Most lotions are water-based formulas.

These are advanced references & resources which should provide a cosmetic maker with the knowledge necessary to prepare for the HSCG Advanced Cosmetic Maker Certification Exam. Note: Links generally open in a new window or tab.

General Knowledge

Books:

Family Traditions Publishing. The Bath and Body Book: DIY Bath Bombs, Bath Salts, Body Butter and Body Scrubs Family Tradictions Publishing, 2014.(Available at Amazon; click here)

Port, Holly. Make It Fizz: A Guide to Making Bathtub Treats. San Bernadino, CA, Lotion Bar Café, 2014. (Available at Amazon; click here)

Additional books available in the HSCG Store.

Websites:

Scientific American. Chemistry of Bath Bombs

Chempro. Fatty acid profiles

Chemistry LibreTexts. Lipids and Triglycerides

HSCG How-To Library. How to make fizzy bath bombs

Lotioncrafter. Olive cleansing oil

Natures Garden. Free Classes and Recipes

Personal Care Truth. Math Used in Cosmetic Product Formulation

Soap Queen. Bath and Body Tutorials

Stephenson Personal Care. How to Make a Cleansing Oil Using Durosoft

Fragrance and Essential Oils:

Books:

Lawless, Julia. The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Essential Oils: The Complete Guide to the Use of Oils in Aromatherapy and Herbalism. Conari Press: U.K., 2013. (Available at Amazon; click here)

Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. North Atlantic Books, 1999. (Available at Amazon; click here)

Websites:

HSCG How-To Library. Beginner's Guide to Fragrance Blending

International Fragrance Association (IFRA). Home

Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM). Home

Tisserand Institute. Bath Safety: How to use essential oils safely in the bath

Good Manufacturing Practices:

Books:

Gale, Marie. Good Manufacturing Practices for Soap and Cosmetic Handcrafters Cinnabar Press, 2012. (Available in the HSCG Store; click here)

Websites:

ASEAN Cosmetics Association. Good Manufacturing Practices Training Modules.

Health Canada/Consumer Product Safety. Good Manufacturing Practices for Cosmetic Products

U.S. FDA/CFSAN. Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practice Inspection Checklist (2008)

U.S. FDA/CFSAN. Draft Guidance: Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practice (2013)

International Standards Organization. ISO 22716:2007 Cosmetics -- Good Manufacturing Practices. (for purchase)

Labeling, Cosmetic Regulations

Books:

Gale, Marie. Soap and Cosmetic Labeling: How to Follow the Rules and Regs Explained in Plain English 3rd ed. Cinnabar Press, 2015. (Available in the HSCG Store; click here)

Personal Care Products Council. Labeling Manual, 9th Edition (available for purchase)

Websites:

HSCG How-To Library Legal Compliance

US FDA. FDA Authority Over Cosmetics

US FDA. Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics

US FDA. Key Legal Concepts: Interstate Commerce, Adulterated, and Misbranded

US FDA. Cosmetic Labeling Guide

US FDA. Small Businesses & Homemade Cosmetics: Fact Sheet

US FDA. Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act)

US FDA. Labeling Regulations: CFR Title 21, Part 701

US FDA. Fragrances in Cosmetics

Health Canada/Consumer Product Safety. Labelling of Cosmetics

Health Canada/Consumer Product Safety. Guide to Cosmetic Ingredient Labelling

Health Canada/Consumer Product Safety. Regulatory Information

Competition Bureau Canada. Guide to the Consumer Packaging and Labelling Act and Regulations

European Commission/Enterprise and Industry. Cosmetic Ingredients

European Commission/Enterprise and Industry. Regulation (ED) No 1223/2009 on Cosmetic Products

Additional Materials:

More materials will be developed as time permits. Suggestions for additional certification study materials should be sent HSCG Certification Director at .

HSCG Advanced Cosmetic Certification requires the submission of four (4) cosmetic samples which must meet very exact specifications. There is a detailed criteria for evaluation, which specifies the points for each aspect of the product, labeling, and required documentation (see below). Each product may receive up to 100 points; 85 points is required for the product to pass. Every product must pass on its own merit in order to pass the Product Sample portion of the HSCG Cosmetic Certification Advanced Level.

Sample Requirements

Sample No. 1. Lip Gloss OR Lip Scrub

1. Formulate a recipe using at least three different oils, fats, butters or waxes. For lip scrubs include in the formula an exfoliant such as salt, sugar or jojoba beads.
2. Flavor oils or food safe essential oils of your choosing are to be added.
3. Color should be added.
4. Do not use additives such as herbs or herbal extracts.
5. No premixed formulas are allowed.
6. Lip gloss/lip scrubs should have a net weight in the range of 0.15 – 1.0 oz. (4.25 – 28g).
7. Lip gloss is to be packaged in one of the following: lip pot, lip gloss tube w/ applicator, or lip gloss squeeze tube.

Sample No. 2. Dispersing Bath Oil OR Emulsifed Oil Makeup Remover

1. Formulate a recipe using at least two different oils and an emulsifier.
2. No fragrance for emulsified oil makeup remover. Fragrance of your choosing is to be added to dispersing bath oil.
3. Do not use color additives or other additives such as herbs, teas or extracts.
4. No premixed bases are allowed.
5. The bath oil/makeup remover should be packaged using a dispensing cap or pump.
6. The bath oil/makeup remover should have a net weight in the range of 6.0 – 8.0 fl. oz. (177 – 236mL).

Sample No. 3. Bath Fizzy

1. Formulate a bath fizzy recipe of your choosing.
2. Scent should be added.
3. Color should be added.
4. No premixed bases are allowed.
5. Bath fizzies should be molded, packaged in appropriate packaging to protect from moisture, contamination and damage.
6. Bath fizzies should have a net weight of 3 – 5 oz. (85 – 141g).

Sample No. 4. Whipped Body Butter

1. Formulate a recipe using at least three different oils/fats/butters of your choosing.
2. Fragrance of your choosing is to be added.
3. Do not use color additives or other additives such as herbs, teas or infusions.
4. No premixed bases are allowed.
5. The body butter should be packaged in appropriate containers.
6. The body butter should have a net weight in the range of 4 – 8 oz. (113 – 226g).

Documentation

1. Recipe calculations illustrating how the amounts of ingredients were calculated must be included.
2. All calculations must be by weight not volume and must include the percentage of each ingredient
3. Batch code sheet with the batch number, recipe ingredients, amounts and procedures must be included. Use the Cosmetic Batch Sheet to provide this information.
4. On a separate sheet, attach your record of data collected during the making and finishing of steps appropriate for the specific recipe. The record of data must include a written description of how the product was made stating relevant temperature, time and conditions.
5. Include an SDS for each ingredient used in the recipe.

Labeling

1. Each product must be appropriately wrapped/packaged and labeled per your country’s regulations.
2. If a cosmetic is misbranded, it will be disqualified.
3. Labeling for bath fizzies must include directions for safe use, including any necessary warnings.

Submittal of Cosmetic Samples and Documentation

1. If submitting these samples at the Annual Conference, the samples and documents must be submitted to the Certification Committee Table by close of the regularly scheduled conference registration to allow time to process and judge the cosmetics.
2. If cosmetic samples and documents will be submitted at a time other than at the Annual Conference, contact the HSCG office for the correct mailing address for the judge evaluating the samples. Please package all samples carefully so they will arrive undamaged.
3. No cosmetic samples or documents will be returned.

Criteria for Evaluation

The criteria for the evaluation of the cosmetic samples are listed below. You may also review the Cosmetic Sample Evaluation Sheets which will be used by the judges.

1. Technical Aspects (70%)
   • Weight (Pass/Fail): The cosmetic sample must weigh or measure within its required weight. It may not weigh less than the stated weight on the label or the sample will be considered misbranded and disqualified
   • Scent (10%): The cosmetic sample should have a pleasing scent and be free of any off-odors.
   • Color (10%): Color additives are properly incorporated into the product to create the desired impression. For those samples without color additives, the color of the product should be uniform and typical for the product. A product which includes a color additive which is not approved for cosmetic use, or uses an color additive in a manner for which it has not been approved will be disqualified.
   • Visual Appearance (20%): Bath fizzies should be uniform in appearance without warts or cracks. Dispersing bath oils/emulsified makeup remover should be transparent and have a uniform appearance without any settling of ingredients. Lip gloss/lip scrubs should be uniform in color and consistency without separation. Body butters should be uniform in color and consistency and be free of lumps, graininess or separation.
   • Physical Consistency and Performance (30%): Lip gloss/lip scrubs should be of a smooth, yet spreadable consistency. Lip gloss should glide smoothly on the lips without being sticky or tacky and leave a lustrous shine and slight tint on the lips. Lip scrubs should gently exfoliate and not be too harsh in action. Exfoliants should be evenly dispersed. Dispersing bath oil/ Emulsifying oil makeup remover should turn milky when mixed with water and oils and fragrance should be evenly dispersed. Bath fizzies should be firm and unyielding when gently pressed. They should show good fizzing action and should easily dissolve in warm water. Fragrance, color and oils, waxes or butters (optional), should be evenly dispersed in the water. Body butter should be creamy with a light airy texture. They should not be grainy or lumpy. They should glide on smoothly, not be overly greasy and should melt on contact with the skin.
2. Labeling (10%): Labeling must be in accordance with country of manufacture labeling requirements or the cosmetic sample will be disqualified. Failure to provide directions for use and/or warnings in bath products will constitute a fail. Any statements or claims for the intended use of the product which render the product an unapproved new drug will also constitute a fail.
   • Product identity: (Pass/Fail): On Cosmetic on principal display panel.
   • Net Weight (Pass/Fail): In proper units on principal display panel and not more than the actual net contents.
   • Manufacturer’s contact information (Pass/Fail): Name, street address, city, state and zip code.address may be omitted if proof is provided that the street address is listed in an online or print directory.
   • Listing of ingredients (Pass/fail): In proper order with correct ingredient names based on the country or production on information panel.
   • Directions for Use (10%): Bath fizzies must include directions for safe use and any necessary warnings.
3. Documentation (20%): All documents must be submitted or the cosmetic sample will be disqualified.
   • Recipe Calculation (5%): Provide recipe showing calculations for all ingredients, including percentages of each ingredient in the formula.
   • Batch Code Sheet (5%): Complete the attached form for ingredients; Outline the necessary directions and steps required to successfully create a finished product.
   • SDS (5%): Provide for all ingredients.
   • Process Description (5%): Attach your own record of data collected during the cosmetic making and finishing steps that are appropriate for the specific recipe/cosmetic. The record of data shall include a written description of how the cosmetic was made, stating relevant temperatures, time and conditions and any other factors experienced in making the product.