Master Certification - Overview

The CP/HP Master Certification requires the submission of six (6) soap samples which meet very exact criteria. Each soap is judged based on a Soap Evaluation Sheet, which specifies the points for each aspect of the soap, labeling, and required documentation. Each soap may receive up to 100 points; 85 points is required for the soap to pass. Every soap must pass on it's own merit in order to pass the Soap Sample portion of the Master Certification Program.

You can review the Soap Evaluation Sheets for the CP/HP Master Level Soap Samples to see exactly how the sample soaps are evaluated and scored.

Sample Soap Criteria

Specifications for the 6 sample soaps are as follows.

Recipe #1: Ghost Swirl Soap

• Produce an artistic cold process soap by manipulating the percentage of water in the lye solution using no other additives or colorants.
• Create a unique and complex design or pattern in the soap such as intricate swirling or marbling.
• Formulate a recipe with at least three different oils, fats, and/or butters.
• Soapmaker must calculate his/her own recipe.
• Fragrance and swirl design are soapmaker’s choice. Fragrance must be added to all soap batter to ensure the design is the result of water manipulation and not fragrance discoloration.
• The soap must weigh 3.5 to 5.5 ounces net.

Recipe #2: Natural Artisan Soap

• Produce a natural artistic cold process soap using only natural plant based colorants and/or clays and fragranced with essential oils.
• Use intermediate to advanced swirling techniques. Examples include the Taiwan Swirl, Butterfly Swirl, Peacock Swirl, a combination of layers, swirls and/or embeds, and/or silhouettes.
• Use a minimum of 4 natural colors. Plant colors may be ground, sifted, and added directly to the soap solution or infused in the soapmaking oil. Natural clays may be added directly to the soap batter.
• Use a minimum of three essential oils in the soap blend. The essential oil blend must comply with IFRA Standards safe usage levels for wash off products.
• Formulate a recipe with at least three different oils, fats, and/or butters.
• Soapmaker must calculate his/her own recipe.
• The soap must weigh 3.5 to 5.5 ounces net.

Recipe #3: Shaving Puck

• Produce a shaving puck with fragrance using hot process saponification.
• Formulate the recipe using at least three different fats, butters, fatty acids, and/or oils.
• Formulate the recipe using both sodium and potassium hydroxide. Ratio of sodium to potassium hydroxide is soapmaker’s choice.
• The soap should be round (circular) and be sufficiently hard to withstand handling, stacking, and shipping with minimal wear and distortion.
• Fragrance is to be added.
• Fillers, such as clay and salt, are not allowed.
• Fillers, such as sodium lactate and yogurt to create a more fluid batter, are allowed.
• Added glycerin is allowed.
• The soap must weigh 3.5 to 5.5 ounces net.

Recipe #4: Cream Soap

• Produce a sample of cream soap with fragrance using hot process saponification.
• Formulate the recipe using at least three different fats, butters, fatty acids, and/or oils.
• Formulate the recipe using both sodium and potassium hydroxide. Ratio of sodium to potassium hydroxide is soapmaker’s choice.
• Final water content of cream soap is soapmaker’s choice and should result in an acceptable cream.
• Fragrance is to be added.
• The addition of clay is permitted but is not required.
• Emulsifying, gelling, stabilizing, or thickening agents are not permitted. Examples of these disallowed additives include: Polysorbates, Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearates, Cetyl Alcohol, Guar Gum, Carageenan, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, and etc.
• Package in a 4 fluid ounce plastic wide mouth jar.

Recipe #5: Transparent Bar Soap

• Produce a sample of transparent soap with color and fragrance using hot process saponification. Formulate recipe with at least three different oils, fats, and/or butters.
• Stearic acid may be used.
• Use of alcohol in the recipe is soapmaker’s choice. Ethanol or isopropanol may be used.
• Sugar and/or glycerin may be added to improve transparency but other ingredients such as sorbitol or propylene glycol are not allowed.
• Color and fragrance are to be added.
• The bar must weigh 3.5 to 5.5 ounces net and be either individually molded or cut from a log or block.

Recipe #6: Opaque Bar Soap from Self-Produced Lye

• Produce a bar of opaque soap using either cold or hot process saponification dependent upon the method of self-produced lye.
• Make lye solution from a natural material such as wood ashes or from the electrolysis of table salt or sodium bicarbonate.
• Formulate recipe with at least three different oils, fats, fatty acids, and/or butters.
• Soapmaker is to calculate his/her own lye discount and water content.
• Do not add any fragrance, color, dried herbs, or detergents.
• The bar should weigh 3.5 to 5.5 ounces net and be either individually molded or cut from a log or block.

Labeling

Unless otherwise specified, each sample soap must be correctly labeled.

• Each soap must be appropriately wrapped/packaged and labeled per soapmaker’s country’s regulations.
• If a soap is adulterated or misbranded, it will be disqualified. Examples of a misbranded soap include failure to include the net weight, failure to include the name and address, failure to provide the product identity, or mis-stating the ingredients in the ingredient declaration (if used on the label)

NOTE: Design and artistic presentation are not evaluated; only conformity to existing regulations is evaluated by the judges.

Documentation

Complete documentation must be provided with each sample soap, and must include:

• Recipe calculations illustrating how the amounts of all ingredients were calculated. A copy of the soapmaker’s own calculations, either handwritten or typed are acceptable documents. The use of lye calculators is not allowed.
• Batch Code Sheet with the batch number, recipe ingredients, and amounts used. Use the Master Batch Code Sheet.
• Include a Safety Data Sheet for each ingredient used in recipe, except water, herbs, and botanicals.
• Attach on a separate sheet, your record of data collected during the soapmaking and finishing steps appropriate for the specific soap recipe. The record of data should include a written description of how the soap was made stating relevant temperatures, times, conditions, and residual alkalinity test results.

The HSCG Master MP Certification requires the submission of six (6) soap samples which meet very exact criteria. Each soap is judged based on a Soap Evaluation Sheet, which specifies the points for each aspect of the soap, labeling, and required documentation. Each soap may receive up to 100 points; 85 points is required for the soap to pass. Every soap must pass on its own merits in order to pass the Soap Sample portion of the Master Certification Program.

You can review the Soap Evaluation Sheets for the MP Master Level Soap Samples to see exactly how the sample soaps are evaluated and scored.

Sample Soap Criteria

Specifications for the 6 sample MP soaps are as follows.

Recipe #1: 3D Effect Scenery Soap

1. Produce a molded or loaf soap depicting a scene or a subject.
2. Combine multiple techniques to create complex designs within the soap using composite embeds, swirls, layers and/or other techniques to create scenery with a 3 dimensional effect within the soap.
3. Extra Clear MP base for any transparent soap, your choice for opaque soap. All embeds are to be made by you.
4. Fragrance and color are to be added.
5. Your choice for selection of fragrance and colorants.
6. Soap should have a net weight in the range of 3.5 to 7.0 oz (100 to 200 grams).

Recipe #2: Soap with Raised Relief

1. Produce a molded or loaf soap with a raised relief of contrasting color.
2. Soap of at least three different colors should be used to accentuate the relief and bring out the design of the relief. Relief may be created using a mat, molded manipulations, ribbons, twists or folding, hand carved or piped flowers or other objects shaped by hand.
3. Mica should be used in some portion of the soap.
4. Extra Clear MP base for any transparent soap, your choice for opaque soap.
5. Fragrance and color are to be added.
6. Your choice for selection of fragrance and colorants.
7. Soap should have a net weight in the range of 3.5 to 7 oz (100 to 200 grams).

Recipe #3: Imitation Soap

1. Produce a soap that looks like food, rocks, gemstones or other object.
2. Using multiple layers and techniques of advanced skill, produce an imitation of cupcakes, cakes, pies, truffles, waffles, rocks, gemstones or other objects.
3. Some aspect of the project should include the use of piping, carving or other free form manipulations other than molding to resemble the object being created.
4. The soap still has to be functional so it can be used as soap.
5. Your choice of soap bases. Any embeds are to be made by you.
6. Fragrance and color are to be added.
7. Your choice for selection of fragrance and colorants.
8. Submit a soap sample with a net weight in the range of 3.5 to 7.0 oz (100 to 200 grams).

Recipe #4: Original Artisan Soap

1. Produce an artistic creative soap of your choice with color, fragrance, and additives.
2. Create a unique and complex soap demonstrating master proficiency. Suggestions include raised relief with continuing pattern throughout the soap, plaids, geometrics, gradients with no lines, unique shapes etc.
3. The soap still has to be functional so it can be used as soap.
4. Your choice of soap bases.
5. Fragrance and color are to be added. Your choice for selection of fragrance and colorants.
6. A minimum of 5 colors
7. Soap should have a net weight in the range of 3.5 to 7.0 oz (100 to 200 grams).

Recipe #5: Make Your Own MP Soap Base from Scratch

1. Produce a sample of transparent melt and pour soap base made from scratch.
2. Base can be made with surfactants, a combination of surfactants and fatty acids, fats and/or oils or a natural blend of oils, fats and fatty acids.
3. The sample must be able to be remelted.
4. Typical solvents such as sorbitol, propylene glycol, glycerin and sugar may be added.
5. Other additives not contributing to the formulation and creation of a transparent MP soap base such as color, fragrance, botanicals and clays are not to be added.
6. The bar should weigh 3.5 – 5.5 oz. (100 to 156 grams) and may be either individually molded or cut from a log or block.

Recipe #6: Hybrid CP/MP Soap

1. Produce a loaf soap using a combination of cold process and melt and pour soap.
2. Create a soap with embeds, swirling, layering or other techniques using a combination of MP and CP soaps.
3. A minimum of two techniques must be used. Examples include layers and swirls or swirls and embeds, etc.
4. Formulate the cold process soap using at least three different oils, fats and/or butters.
5. At least 1/3 of the total amount of soap should be mp base of your choosing. Higher melt point MP is advised.
6. Fragrance and color of your choice are to be added.
7. Contrast the colors of the MP soap base with the CP soap.
8. Soap design is your choice.
9. Soap should have a net weight in the range of 3.5 to 7.0 oz (100 to 200 grams).

B. Labeling

• Each soap must be appropriately wrapped/packaged and labeled per soapmaker's country's regulations.
• If a soap is adulterated or misbranded, it will be disqualified.

C. Documentation

Complete documentation must be provided with each sample soap, and must include:

1. Recipe calculations illustrating how the amounts of all ingredients were calculated. A copy of the soapmaker's own calculations, either handwritten or typed are acceptable documents. The use of lye calculators is not allowed.
2. Batch Code Sheet with the batch number, recipe ingredients, and amounts used. Use the Master Batch Code Sheet.
3. Include a Safety Data Sheet for each ingredient used in recipe, except water, herbs, and botanicals.
4. Attach on a separate sheet, your record of data collected during the soapmaking and finishing steps appropriate for the specific soap recipe. The record of data should include a written description of how the soap was made stating relevant temperatures, times, conditions, and residual alkalinity test results.

Submittal of Soap Samples and Documentation

• If submitting these soap samples at the Annual Conference, the soap samples and documents can be submitted to the Certification Table. Please submit as soon as possible so evaluations can be made in a timely manner.
• If soap samples and documents will be submitted at a time other than at the Annual Conference, contact the HSCG office for the correct mailing address for the judge evaluating the soaps. Please package the soap carefully so it will arrive undamaged. Soap and documents will not be returned.

Scoring of Soap Samples

• Each criterion of the evaluation has percentage points assigned to it. The maximum score per soap is 100 percentage points.
• Each soap must score 85 percentage points or higher to pass its individual exam. Every soap must pass in order to pass the Soap Evaluation Part.
• If a soap is deemed to be adulterated or misbranded, it will be automatically disqualified.

The second part of the Master Level Certification Program is a written examination.

Purpose

To assess the soapmaker’s knowledge of soapmaking raw materials, chemistry, formulation, and creative techniques by completing short essays on a selected group of topics appropriate for each process.

Rules

Each written exam will consist of 10 questions, one each from the topics below. The exam questions will be randomly selected by a computer program.

Each question is to be answered with a brief essay of not more than one page with legible handwriting and single spaced. The candidate should express knowledge of the topic in a concise and orderly manner and with supporting statements to demonstrate proficiency of the topic. Calculations may be required. Three (3) hours will be allowed for the exam.

Topics

Questions will be randomly selected from those listed below - one from each topic group. The questions will not be presented in this order.

Soapmaking Ingredients

• Explain how coconut oil is extracted from its source and purified. If there are different grades based upon source, extraction, and/or purification method, describe these differences and how it impacts the selection for making soap. Discuss physical and chemical properties of these grades. In the candidate’s opinion, is this ingredient be considered a natural, naturally derived, or synthetic ingredient? Why?
• Explain how palm oil is extracted from its source and purified. If there are different grades based upon source, extraction, and/or purification method, describe these differences and how it impacts the selection for making soap. Discuss physical and chemical properties of these grades. In the candidate’s opinion, is this ingredient considered a natural, naturally derived, or synthetic ingredient? Why?
• Explain how olive oil is extracted from its source and purified. If there are different grades based upon source, extraction, and/or purification method, describe these differences and how it impacts the selection for making soap. Discuss physical and chemical properties of these grades. In the candidate’s opinion, is this ingredient considered a natural, naturally derived, or synthetic ingredient? Why?
• How is stearic acid commercially produced? Are there different grades available and what are the differences between the grades? Which grade is most appropriate for soapmaking? In the candidate’s opinion, is this ingredient considered a natural, naturally derived, or synthetic ingredient? Why?
• How is sodium hydroxide commercially produced? Are there different grades available and what are the differences between the grades? Which grade is most appropriate for soapmaking? In the candidate’s opinion, is this ingredient considered a natural, naturally derived, or synthetic ingredient? Why?
• How is potassium hydroxide commercially produced? Are there different grades available and what are the differences between the grades? Which grade is most appropriate for soapmaking? In the candidate’s opinion, is this ingredient considered a natural, naturally derived, or synthetic ingredient? Why?

Soapmaking Ingredients

• If ethanol is used in making transparent soap, what grades and proofs should be used? Why? Explain the difference in composition between “pure alcohol,” “SDA,” and “CDA,” per US regulations. In the candidate’s opinion, is this ingredient considered a natural, naturally derived, or synthetic ingredient? Why?
• How does the quality of the water used in soapmaking affect the finished product? Is the water quality more or less important for hot process versus cold process? What about opaque bar soap versus liquid soap? How about opaque bar soap versus transparent bar soap? What would be some undesirable components or characteristics of a water to avoid? What is the range of water quality used personally by the candidate in soapmaking? Has the candidate ever had problems with soap attributed to the water quality?

Soapmaking Processes

• If the same recipe for bar soap was used with hot process and then with cold process, explain the differences seen in the soap pot and how the soap process affects the final properties of the soap. Should the recipe be modified for each process?
• Describe the “Kettle Process” and the “Cold Process” methods of commercial soapmaking. Describe the differences and similarities between each process.
• Describe various methods of hot process soapmaking – double boiler, crock pot, oven, and etc. What are the advantages and disadvantages of one over another?
• Describe the “salting out” process. Give examples of how the salting out process could be of benefit to a handcrafted soapmaker.

Soapmaking Processes

• Why are cream soaps made with a mixture of alkalis? What would happen if the ratio of KOH:NaOH is changed from 5:1 to 1:5? Why is stearic acid added? Describe the term “rot” as it pertains to cream soapmaking and the benefits and disadvantages of “rotting.”
• What qualities are inherent in a shaving soap? What ingredients are necessary to achieve these qualities? How is shaving soap different from bathing soap? Would a shaving soap make a good bathing soap? Why or why not? Is a shaving soap considered a consumer commodity or a cosmetic in the U.S.? Why?
• What is the general percentage range of anhydrous soap to solvents in a transparent soap? What solvents are generally used in transparent soap and what role does each solvent play? Is one solvent more effective than another? What happens to the transparent soap if too much or too little solvent is added? Why is transparent soap transparent? What is the most difficult factor to control when making this soap? What steps can be taken to overcome/alleviate these difficulties?

Soapmaking Processes

• Are “glycerin rivers” actually glycerin? What causes glycerin rivers? How can they be avoided?
• What are the constituents in clove oil that causes saponification to accelerate or seize in CP soapmaking? Describe how you can control this effect through various soapmaking CP techniques. What would happen if you added clove oil to your transparent soap recipe?
• Define the terms “low water soap,” “medium water soap,” and “high water soap.” Explain the advantages and disadvantages of each. Give examples of each using 150 grams of sodium hydroxide as a reference.
• Describe ways in which the gel phase, or lack of it, may be manipulated by the soapmaker. Give reasons why the soapmaker may or may not want soap to gel.
• Calculate the amount of anhydrous soap in a recipe of 100 pounds of oil: 80% weight is olive oil (190.0 SAP) and 20% weight is coconut oil (256.5 SAP). Anhydrous soap consists of only the sodium cocoate and sodium oleate produced from saponification. Calculate the percentage of glycerin released from these oils due to saponification.

Additives: Color, Fragrance, Botanicals

• Which color additives are most appropriate for CP soaps and why? Which color additives are most appropriate for transparent soap and why? How are color additives affected by the soap?
• Describe the many ways the CP soap process may affect an essential or fragrance oil. Is the essential or fragrance oil affected in the same way for hot process bar, liquid, or cream soap? Describe these affects for these different soaps.

Additives: Color, Fragrance, Botanicals

• What are the benefits of adding clay in a shaving soap? What are the drawbacks? Is one type of clay preferable over another? How and when should the clay be added?
• At what point in the manufacturing process should additives be incorporated into a cream soap? Can dried herbs be added to a cream soap? Why or why not? Can alternative liquids such as goat milk and aloe vera juice be added to a cream soap? Why or why not? Can pureed fruits and vegetables be added to a cream soap? Why or why not?
• Does cream soap need a preservative? Why or why not? If so, what are the necessary characteristics of a good preservative for cream soap?

Soapmaking and Product Safety

• Explain how to quantitatively measure the residual alkalinity of CP bar and liquid soap. What is the typical maximum residual alkali content considered to be safe in soap?
• What does pH and residual alkalinity measure in a finished bar soap? How are these tests performed? What is the difference in the results between these two measurements? Why is residual alkalinity measured by a titration preferred over pH measurements?
• How does having less water affect the lye making step? How does having less water affect the saponification step? Which oils/fats should be avoided or minimized if using less water and a higher concentration of lye? Is there a % NaOH solution to not exceed? If so, what percentage and why?
• What is the solubility of sodium hydroxide in water at 0°C (32°F)? At 100°C (212°F)? Calculate the % NaOH solutions for these two solubilities. Why is this information important to know for soapmaking? What safety issues could result with the lye solution and soap if there is undissolved sodium hydroxide in the solution?
• What is the solubility of potassium hydroxide in water at 25°C (77°F)? At 100°C (212°F)? Calculate the % KOH solutions for these two solubilities. Why is this information important to know for soapmaking? What safety issues could result with the lye solution and soap if there is undissolved sodium hydroxide in the solution?

Soapmaking and Product Safety

• How is the safety of a new color additive in a soap recipe determined? Where does a soapmaker look to find which color additives are allowable in his/her country? Do all countries list the same color additives as being allowable? For the candidate’s own country, are there certain color additives prohibited in soap? Are there “maximum amounts to not exceed” for certain color additives for wash-off products, such as soap, in the candidate’s own country?
• How is the safety of a new fragrance or essential oil in a soap recipe determined? Where does a soapmaker find regulations to determine if a fragrance or essential oil is allowable in the soapmaker’s country? Do all countries list the same fragrances or essential oils as being allowable? Does the candidate’s own country’s regulation prohibit the use of certain fragrances or essential oils in soap? Are there “maximum amounts to not exceed” for certain fragrance or essential oils for wash-off products such as soap in the candidate’s own country?
• How is the safety of a new ingredient for use in soap assessed? What sources of information do soapmakers consult to determine if this ingredient has restrictions on its use or in the end product?
• Describe the additional hazards of transparent soapmaking over CP soapmaking and the added precautions necessary.

Labeling

The appropriate question for the Member's location will be used.

• (US Members) What is the FDA definition of “soap?” What is the FDA definition of “cosmetic?” When is soap a “cosmetic?” When is soap exempt from the definition of a “cosmetic?” Which government agency regulates soap when it is not a cosmetic? Which government agency regulates soap when sold as a cosmetic? What is the difference between the required labeling for a soap as a cosmetic and a soap exempt from the definition of a cosmetic?
• (Members outside US) Which government agency or agencies regulates the ingredients, manufacturing, and labeling of soap in your country? What are the titles of the government’s standards or directives that must be followed? Describe the labeling necessary for soap sold as a cosmetic.

The second part of the Master Level Certification Program is a written examination.

Purpose

To assess the soapmaker’s knowledge of soapmaking raw materials, chemistry, formulation, and creative techniques by completing short essays on a selected group of topics appropriate for each process.

Rules

Each written exam will consist of 10 questions, one each from the topics below. The exam questions will be randomly selected by a computer program.

Each question is to be answered with a brief essay of not more than one page with legible handwriting and single spaced. The candidate should express knowledge of the topic in a concise and orderly manner and with supporting statements to demonstrate proficiency of the topic. Calculations may be required. Three (3) hours will be allowed for the exam.

Topics

Questions will be randomly selected from those listed below - one from each topic group. The questions will not be presented in this order.

Calculations and Labeling

NOTE: Each question in this section has 2 parts.

• Part 1. Take the SAP values of coconut, palm, and olive oils to be 179, 145, and 134 mg NaOH/g respectively. Consider a soap to be produced from 200 grams of coconut oil, 400 grams of palm oil, and 400 grams of olive oil. How many grams of NaOH should be used to saponify this oil using no lye discount? (Round the answer down to the nearest whole gram.)
  Part 2. Take 493 grams of an MP base with the following ingredients: Coconut oil, palm oil, safflower oil, glycerin, water, sodium hydroxide, sorbitol, propylene glycol, sorbitan oleate, and oat protein. Create a list of ingredients in compliance with cosmetic labeling regulations for a hybrid soap using the ingredients in the MP base in combination with the above CP soap recipe.
• Part 1. Take the SAP values of coconut, palm, and olive oils to be 179, 145, and 134 mg NaOH/g respectively. Consider a soap to be produced from 200.0 ounces of coconut oil, 400.0 ounces of palm oil, and 400.0 ounces of olive oil. How many ounces of NaOH should be used to saponify this oil using no lye discount? (Round the answer down to the nearest 0.1 ounce.)
  Part 2. Take 492.5 ounces of an MP base with the following ingredients: Coconut oil, palm oil, safflower oil, glycerin, water, sodium hydroxide, sorbitol, propylene glycol, sorbitan oleate, and oat protein. Create a list of ingredients in compliance with cosmetic labeling regulations for a hybrid soap using the ingredients in the MP base in combination with the above CP soap recipe.
• Part 1. Take the SAP values of coconut, palm, and olive oils to be 179, 145, and 134 mg NaOH/g respectively. Consider a soap to be produced from 333 grams of coconut oil, 445 grams of palm oil, and 222 grams of olive oil. How many grams of NaOH should be used to saponify this oil using no lye discount? (Round the answer down to the nearest whole gram.)
  Part 2. Take 493 grams of an MP base with the following ingredients: Glycerin, palm oil, coconut oil, lauric acid, water, sodium hydroxide, sodium lauryl sulfate, sorbitol, triethanolamine, salt, and EDTA. Create a list of ingredients in compliance with cosmetic labeling regulations for a hybrid soap using the ingredients in the MP base in combination with the above CP soap recipe.
• Part 1. Take the SAP values of coconut, palm, and olive oils to be 179, 145, and 134 mg NaOH/g, respectively. Consider a soap to be produced from 222.0 ounces of coconut oil, 445.0 ounces of palm oil, and 333.0 ounces of olive oil. How many ounces of NaOH should be used to saponify this oil using no lye discount? (Round the answer down to the nearest 0.1 ounce.)
  Part 2. Take 492.5 oz. of an MP base with the following ingredients: Glycerin, water, sodium stearate, propylene glycol, sorbitol, sodium laurate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium chloride, sodium lauryl sulfate, stearic acid, lauric acid, pentasodium pentetate, and tetrasodium etidronate. Create a list of ingredients in compliance with cosmetic labeling regulations for a hybrid soap using the ingredients in the MP base in combination with the above CP soap recipe.
• Part 1. Take the SAP values of coconut, palm, and olive oils to be 179, 145, and 134 mg NaOH/g respectively. Consider a soap to be produced from 300 grams of coconut oil, 300 grams of palm oil, and 400 grams of olive oil. How many grams of NaOH should be used to saponify this oil using no lye discount? (Round the answer down to the nearest whole gram.)
  Part 2. Take 493 grams of an MP base with the following ingredients: Coconut oil, palm oil, safflower oil, glycerin, aloe vera gel, purified water, sodium hydroxide, sorbitol, propylene glycol, sorbitan oleate, and oat protein. Create a list of ingredients in compliance with cosmetic labeling regulations for a hybrid soap using the ingredients in the MP base in combination with the above CP soap recipe.
• Part 1. Take the SAP values of coconut, palm, and olive oils to be 179, 145, and 134 mg NaOH/g respectively. Consider a soap to be produced from 445 grams of coconut oil, 222 grams of palm oil, and 333 grams of olive oil. How many grams of NaOH should be used to saponify this oil using no lye discount? (Round the answer down to the nearest whole gram.)
  Part 2. Take 493 grams of an MP base with the following ingredients: Olive oil, palm oil, coconut oil, safflower oil, glycerin, hemp seed oil, water, sodium hydroxide, sorbitol, propylene glycol, sorbitan oleate, and oat protein. Create a list of ingredients in compliance with cosmetic labeling regulations for a hybrid soap using the ingredients in the MP base in combination with the above CP soap recipe.

MP Soap Base

• What properties of an MP soap base should be taken into consideration when evaluating it? Why are melting and pouring temperatures critical to a soap design?
• Why does clear MP soap base have more clarity than CP or HP soap? How is MP soap base different than CP or HP soap? How is it similar to CP or HP soap?
• Do all clear MP soap bases have the same melting and pouring temperatures? Why are the temperatures the same or different? Do white MP bases have different melting and pouring temperatures than clear MP bases? Why are the same or different?

Ingredients in MP Soap Base

• Describe the ingredient Sodium Cocoate. What is its function in MP soap base? What are its starting materials? How is it produced? Does the candidate consider Sodium Cocoate to be a natural, naturally derived, or a synthetic ingredient? Why?
• Describe the ingredient Sodium Palmate: What is its function in MP soap base? What are its starting materials? How is it produced? Does the candidate consider Sodium Palmate to be a natural, naturally derived, or a synthetic ingredient? Why?
• Describe the ingredient Propylene Glycol: What is its function in MP soap base? What are its starting materials? How is it produced? Does the candidate consider Propylene Glycol to be a natural, naturally derived, or a synthetic ingredient? Why?
• Describe the ingredient Glycerin: What is its function in MP soap base? What are its starting materials? How is it produced? Does the candidate consider Glycerin to be a natural, naturally derived, or a synthetic ingredient? Why?
• Describe the ingredient Sorbitol: What is its function in MP soap base? What are its starting materials? How is it produced? Does the candidate consider Sorbitol to be a natural, naturally derived, or a synthetic ingredient? Why?
• Describe the ingredient Sodium Lauryl Sulfate: What is its function in MP soap base? What are its starting materials? How is it produced? Does the candidate consider Sodium Lauryl Sulfate to be a natural, naturally derived, or a synthetic ingredient? Why?
• Describe the ingredient Coco Amidopropyl Betaine: What is its function in MP soap base? What are its starting materials? How is it produced? Does the candidate consider Coco Amidopropyl Betaine to be a natural, naturally derived, or a synthetic ingredient? Why?
• Describe the ingredient Sorbitan Oleate: What is its function in MP soap base? What are its starting materials? How is it produced? Does the candidate consider Sorbitan Oleate to be a natural, naturally derived, or a synthetic ingredient? Why?

MP Soap Crafting Techniques/CP Soapmaking

• When making a loaf soap that will have multiple over-pours over soap embeds of a ribbon sheet and cut cubes, what factors need to be considered before starting this project?
• If making a molded soap that will have a bas-relief on its top, what factors need to be considered if planning to fill the relief with a different soap?
• Describe how depth and positioning of embeds can be used in a soap design to make a visual impact. Discuss examples of soap designs that benefit from this type of placement and why.
• Describe how swirling two different colored soap bases using a two-handed pour is done. What needs to be considered before starting this pour? Describe several other ways of swirling two colors.
• When making a multi-colored multi-layered soap, describe the pitfalls that could happen to an inexperienced soapmaker when attempting this project. If this soapmaker wanted to add poppy seed to one of these layers, what should this soapmaker take into consideration? If this soapmaker wanted to add clay to one of these layers, what should this soapmaker take into consideration?

MP Soap Crafting Techniques/CP Soapmaking

• What is the best definition of the term Trace? What does Trace indicate in CP soapmaking? What are accelerated trace and false trace?
• Define the term saponification. What is a SAP value? Take the SAP value of coconut oil to be 256.5 mg potassium hydroxide per gram of oil. Calculate the saponification value for mg of sodium hydroxide per gram of coconut oil.
• Describe accelerated trace, seizing, and ricing in CP soap. Give various reasons why and what can be done to manage these conditions.

Additives: Color, Fragrance, Botanicals

• Which color additives are most appropriate for MP soaps and why? How are color additives affected by the soap?
• Describe the differences between lakes, oxides, and ultramarines. How should powder color additives be added to the MP base? How should mica be added to the MP base?
• List three different types of color additives, their characteristics, and in what kind of soap design each color additive would be best suited.
• When adding fragrance and/or essential oils to MP base for the first time, how is the amount to add determined? Can the color of the soap be affected? What are the visual signs the fragrance and/or essential oils may not be compatible with the MP base?
• Does an MP soap base need a preservative when incorporating additives? Why or why not? If so, what are the necessary characteristics of a good preservative for MP base?

Product Safety

• How is the safety of a new color additive for soap determined? Where should a soapmaker look to find which color additives are allowable within the soapmaker’s own country? Do all countries list the same color additives as being allowable? For the candidate’s own country, are there certain color additives that are prohibited in soap? Are there “maximum amounts to not exceed” for certain color additives for wash-off products such as soap in the candidate’s own country?
• How is the safety of a new fragrance or essential oil for soap determined? Where should a soapmaker look to find which fragrances and essential oils are allowable within the soapmaker’s own country? Do all countries list the same fragrances or essential oils as being allowable? Does the candidate’s own country’s regulation prohibit the use of certain fragrances or essential oils in soap? Are there “maximum amounts to not exceed” for certain fragrance or essential oils for wash-off products such as soap in the candidate’s own country?
• How is the safety of a new ingredient for use in soap assessed? What sources of information should be consulted to determine if the ingredient has restrictions on its use or restrictions in the end product?
• How can a soapmaker be certain a soap is ready to be put in a store? What important factors need to be investigated to determine if soap is ready to be placed on a store shelf for 30 days?

Product Safety

• In making a lye solution with sodium hydroxide and water, what is the order in which the sodium hydroxide should be mixed? Why? What types of containers are safe to use when mixing a lye solution? What types of containers are safe to use when making CP soap?
• If a lye solution is splashed on the skin, what action should be taken? If a lye solution is splashed in the eyes, what action should be taken? If sodium hydroxide is spilled on the work surface, what action should be taken?
• What personal protection should be worn when making CP soap? What other important safety precautions should be followed when making CP soap?

Labeling

The appropriate question for the Member's location will be used.

• (US Members) What is the FDA definition of “soap?” What is the FDA definition of “cosmetic?” When is soap a “cosmetic?” When is soap exempt from the definition of a “cosmetic?” Which government agency regulates soap when it is not a cosmetic? Which government agency regulates soap when sold as a cosmetic? What is the difference between the required labeling for a soap as a cosmetic and a soap exempt from the definition of a cosmetic?
• (Members outside US) Which government agency or agencies regulates the ingredients, manufacturing, and labeling of soap in your country? What are the titles of the government’s standards or directives that must be followed? Describe the labeling necessary for soap sold as a cosmetic.

Part 3 of the Master Certification Program is a Research Project. The project must meet the following criteria.

Purpose

To assess the soapmaker’s application of soapmaking skill and knowledge by proposing a research project that expands handcrafted soapmaking best practices, then conducts research and reports results in a formal paper.

Submittal of Topic

1. When the candidate is ready to start this part of the certification, they are to notify the Certification Program Manager who will assign a Judges Panel.
2. The candidate explores and selects a topic that investigates an area of handcrafted soapmaking that would be of great interest to soapmakers, and the research would make an original contribution to handcrafted soapmaking best practices.
3. The candidate prepares a research proposal to submit to the Judges Panel for review of the topic before proceeding with their research. Candidates should state the research question that they will explore. Candidates should address what is to be answered, why it is important, and the originality of their project. Write how the research will be conducted. Include the estimated date for submittal of the completed project. Requirements for the proposal’s outline and format are given below.
4. The candidate submits the research proposal to the Judges Panel. The Judges Panel will assess the research proposal and either accept it, offer comments to improve it, or reject it.
5. Once approved by the Judges Panel, the candidate proceeds with their research.
6. Once the research is completed, the candidate submits their research paper to the Judges Panel that details their investigation, results, and insight into their topic/ Requirements for the paper’s outline and format are given below.
7. The Judges Panel will assess the research paper and either accept it, offer comments or request more information, or reject it. Once accepted, the Judges Panel will evaluate the research paper and score it.
8. The candidate will receive their research paper back with the Judges’ comments and score.
9. The research paper may be published on the HSCG website and/or in the Cut To The Trace eZine.

Research Proposal Requirements

Research Paper Requirements

Criteria and Scoring

Each aspect of the research project is scored separately and makes up a certain percentage of the whole grade.

Introduction (5%): Describes the general area to be studied and explains why this area is important to soap makers. Must contain a clear and concise research question.

Background (5%): Discusses previous and current practices that are pertinent to the research question. Explains the issue being examined and why it is significant.

Methodology (20%): Description of how the study is to be conducted and what is to be measured. Includes: description of recipe selection, calculation parameters, test methods, and consideration of variables that may or may not be under their control.

Results (30%): Presentation of key findings related to the study’s research question. Can (will) contain figures, tables, graphs, charts…to help present data.

Discussion (20%): Discusses quality of results achieved and demonstrates they are knowledgeable about soap making concepts and relationships.

Conclusions and Recommendation (15%): Summarize the study, its results, and how those results can be used. Must make meaningful recommendations.

References (5%): Formal citation of various external materials cited and used to research and develop topic. Research must contain a minimum of six major references (e.g. books, magazines of the trade and internet sites) to develop the topic. No more than two of the six references can come from the same website.

Scoring

• If paper does not meet the Research Paper requirements, it will be returned to the candidate for correction.
• Each aspect of the paper has percentage points assigned to it. The maximum score is 100 percentage points.
• Each paper must score 85 percentage points or higher to pass.

Part 4 of the Master Certification Program is a Topical Report. The Report must meet the following criteria.

Purpose

To assess the soapmaker’s awareness of the larger picture of soap and soapmaking beyond handcrafted soap by writing a report on a topic related to commercial soapmaking/soapmakers, markets, regulations, etc.

Submittal of Topic

1. When the candidate is ready to start this part of the certification, they are to notify the Certification Program Manager who will assign a Judges Panel.
2. The candidate explores and selects a topic that examines the larger picture of soap and soapmaking beyond handcrafted soap. The topic should be of great interest to handcrafted soapmakers and expand awareness of the place of soap in the world.
3. The candidate prepares a research proposal to submit to the Judges Panel for review of the topic before proceeding. Write the topic as a thesis statement that states precisely what is to be investigated and why it is important. Next note the major subtopics that will be investigated. And include the estimated date for submittal of the completed project. Requirements for the proposal’s outline and format are given below.
4. The candidate submits the research proposal to the Judges Panel. The Judges Panel will assess the proposal and either accept it, offer comments to improve it, or reject it.
5. Once approved by the Judges Panel, the candidate proceeds with their research.
6. Once the research is completed, the candidate submits their research paper to the Judges Panel that details their investigation, results, and insight into their topic/ Requirements for the paper’s outline and format are given below.
7. The Judges Panel will assess the research paper and either accept it, offer comments, request more information, or reject it. Once accepted, the Judges Panel will evaluate the research paper and score it.
8. The candidate will receive their research paper back with the Judges’ comments and score.
9. The research paper may be published on the HSCG website and/or in the Cut To The Trace eZine.

Research Proposal Requirements

Research Paper Requirements

Criteria and Scoring

Each aspect of the research project is scored separately and makes up a certain percentage of the whole grade.

Introduction (5%): Introduce the topic to be explored. Clear and concise thesis statement. Introduces significance of this topic to soapmakers.

Body of Paper (85%): Clearly demonstrates/proves the thesis and uses evidence to support claims made. Demonstrates they are knowledgeable about the topic.

Conclusions (5%): Focused wrap-up of topic and discussion points.

References (5%): Formal citation of various external materials cited and used to research and develop topic. Research must contain a minimum of six major references (e.g. books, magazines of the trade and internet sites) to develop the topic. No more than two of the six references can come from the same website.

Scoring

• If paper does not meet the Topical Paper requirements, it will be returned to the candidate for correction.
• Each aspect of the paper has percentage points assigned to it. The maximum score is 100 percentage points.
• Each paper must score 85 percentage points or higher to pass.

Proctored testing was developed in order to make it possible for HSCG members who cannot travel to the Annual Conference to still become HSCG Certified Soapmakers. By utilizing a proctor to oversee the examination, a member can take a Soapmaker Certification Examination anywhere in the world. Every HSCG member can take advantage of the HSCG Soapmaker Certification Program.

Proctor: A person appointed to keep watch over students at examinations.

Proctor Qualifications

The Proctor is an individual who agrees to receive the exam, administer it in a preapproved Test Location following HSCG guidelines, and return all paperwork to the HSCG. The Proctor must verify that the exam was conducted according to the specific directions of the HSCG.

Examples of individuals who may be acceptable as Proctors are:

• College or university personnel such as deans, department chairs, professors, librarians, or testing center personnel.
• Public or private school personnel such as superintendents, principals, guidance counselors, or teachers.
• Other personnel such as civil service examiners, justice of the peace, public librarians, tutoring center personnel.

Unacceptable Proctors include, but are not limited to, family members, friends, co-workers, supervisors, employers, or anyone with a potential conflict of interest.

Timeline

Obviously, there are lots of steps necessary to make all the arrangements necessary for a proctored test. The following timeline, shows the details of the expected timeline before and after the examination.

• Member makes arrangements for a Proctor and Test Location
• Up to 30 days before Exam: Member completes and sends in Proctored Exam Application Form
• Up to 20 days before Exam: HSCG notifies Member of approval/disapproval
• Up to 10 days before Exam: Member pays the registration fee and sends in Registration form for the Certification Test
• Up to 10 days before Exam: Cancellations accepted with refund, minus 25%
• Up to 7 days before Exam: HSCG mails exam to Proctor
• Up to 3 days before Exam: Cancellations are accepted with refund, minus 50%
• Date of Exam: Member takes exam
• Up to 1 day after Exam: Proctor mails exam to HSCG
• Up to 7 days after Receipt of Exam: HSCG notifies examinee of results via email
• Up to 14 days after Receipt of Exam: HSCG mails certificate to examinee

Rules

These rules are also available as a .pdf document.

1. Individual exams are conducted under the auspices of the HSCG. All rules and responsibilities contained in this document must be adhered to in order for the exam to be valid and recognized for HSCG Certification. Failure to comply with the rules will cause the exam results to be invalid.
2. A HSCG Member requests to hold a Certification Exam by arranging for a Proctor and Test Location. The HSCG must receive the Proctored Exam Application Form from the Member at least 30 days before the proposed exam date. The Request can be submitted by mail/email/fax.
3. The HSCG may approve or disapprove this request based upon the HSCG's assessment and verification of the Member's membership. The Member and Proctor will be emailed of the HSCG's approval or disapproval at least 20 days before the proposed exam date.
4. Any fees incurred by using a Proctor or the Testing Location are the responsibility of the Member.
5. The Member registers for the exam by submitting the Registration form by mail/email/fax. The Member also needs to pay the registration fee. Payment may be made online or by phone. Both Registration and payment must be received by HSCG at least 10 days before the exam date.
6. The exam and instructions will be mailed to the Proctor 7 days before the exam date. The Proctor will keep these documents in safe keeping appropriate for confidential documents and not allow others to view the documents.
7. At the approved date, time, and location, the Proctor will administer the exam to the Member according to Exam Instructions for an Individual Exam and Proctor Instructions. The Proctor will assure that the Test Location maintains an environment suitable for conducting the exam. The Proctor is to actively monitor the examinee during the exam.
8. After completion of the exam, the Proctor will immediately gather and account for all documents. The documents will be immediately placed and sealed in an envelope, which will be mailed to the HSCG within one business day after the exam. This mailing is done at the expense of the Member. The Proctor will not reproduce, copy, or retain documents in any manner.
9. The HSCG will grade the exam and notify the Member, via email, of their grade within 7 days of receipt of exam. Certificates will be mailed within 14 days of receipt of exam.
10. Cancellations for examinees received by HSCG up to 10 days before the exam will be refunded their HSCG registration fee minus 25%. Cancellations for examinees received by HSCG up to 3 days before the exam will be refunded their HSCG registration fee minus 50%. Cancellations received by HSCG within 3 days of the exam will not receive a refund of their registration fee.
11. If the exam cannot be given on the agreed upon date, with the approved Proctor and Test Location, the HSCG is to be immediately notified by the Member in order to reevaluate the situation.