Overview: Basic Candlemaker Certification and General Criteria
Basic Level Candlemaker Certification is the first level of certification for all HSCG certified candlemakers.
At the Basic Candlemaker level, Candlemakers are expected to:
- Comprehend the basic terms used in candlemaking
- Understand safe handling/storage procedures for candlemaking supplies and equipment
- Know mandatory labeling of candles per universally standard guidelines (international members are not expected to know US-only regulations)
- Use good manufacturing practices
Testing Procedure
The basic level examination consists of 20 questions which are a combination of multiple choice, true/false and numeric (requiring a number for an answer). The questions are randomly selected from a bank of questions which are broken out into separate subjects. As a result, every test has a different combination of questions covering each subject.
A minimum score of 85% (17 of 20 questions correct) is required to pass the exam. Results will be given as "Pass" or "Fail". Results for "Pass" will be published on the HSCG Website. Results for "Fail" will be sent privately to members who did not attain a passing score.
Members may take any Certification Exam as many times as necessary to achieve a passing score, however, the exam fee must be paid each time the exam is taken.
Timeline for Basic Level Candle Makers
There are a lot of steps necessary to make all the arrangements for a Zoom Certification exam. The following timeline shows the details of the expected timeline before and after the examination.
- Up to 20 days before Exam: HSCG sends eNews with Zoom dates
- Up to 10 days before Exam: Member pays the registration fee and sends in Registration form for the Certification Test
- Up to 10 days before Exam: HSCG sends Zoom Certification Information email
- Up to 10 days before Exam: HSCG mails exam packet to examinee
- Up to 3 days before Exam: HSCG emails Zoom link to examinee
- Date of Exam: Member logs on to Zoom and takes exam
- Up to 1 day after Exam: Examinee mails exam to HSCG
- Up to 7 days after Receipt of Exam: HSCG notifies examinee of results via email
Practice Tests
On-line practice tests have been created for the basic Candle Maker certification. These tests use the actual test questions and give immediate feedback on the results. They are an excellent way to prepare for the exams and get a feel for how the exam process works.
Sample Product Criteria
HSCG Basic Cosmetic Certification requires the submission of three (3) cosmetic samples which must meet very exact specifications. There is a detailed criteria for evaluation, which specifies the points for each aspect of the product, labeling, and required documentation (see below). Each product may receive up to 100 points; 85 points is required for the product to pass. Every product must pass on its own merit in order to pass the Product Sample portion of the HSCG Cosmetic Certification Basic Level.
Sample Requirements
Sample No. 1. Bath Salts or Bath Soaks
- Formulate a recipe using at least three different salts, starches, milk powders or water conditioners based upon choice of either bath salts/soaks.
- Fragrance of your choosing is to be added.
- Color should be added.
- Do not use additives such as oils, herbs or teas.
- No premixed bath salts/soaks are allowed.
- Bath salts/soaks should have a net weight in the range of 6.0 – 8.0 oz. (170-227g).
Sample No. 2. Lotion Bar or Body Melt
- Formulate a recipe using at least three different oils/fats/butters of your choosing.
- Fragrance of your choosing is to be added.
- Do not use color additives or other additives such as herbs or teas.
- No premixed bases are allowed.
- The lotion bar/body melt should be either molded or poured in appropriate containers.
- The lotion bar/body melt should have a net weight in the range of 2.0 – 4.0 oz. (57-113g).
Sample No. 3. Lip Balm or Lip Gloss
- Formulate a recipe using at least three different oils/fats/butters of your choosing.
- Flavor oils or food safe essential oils of your choosing are to be added.
- Color additives are optional for lip balm but are required for lip gloss.
- Do not use additives such as herbs or teas.
- No premixed bases are allowed.
- The lip balm/gloss should be packaged in appropriate lip balm/gloss containers.
- The lip balm/gloss should have a net weight in the range of 0.15 – 2 oz. (4.25 – 57g).
Documentation
- Recipe calculations illustrating how the amounts of ingredients were calculated must be included.
- All calculations must be by weight, not volume and must include the percentage of each ingredient
- Batch code sheet with the batch number, recipe ingredients, amounts and procedures shall be included. Use the Cosmetic Batch Sheet to provide this information.
- Attach on a separate sheet your record of data collected during the making and finishing of steps appropriate for the specific recipe. The record of data must include a written description of how the product was made stating relevant temperature, time and conditions.
- Include an SDS for each ingredient used in the recipe.
Labeling
- Each product must be appropriately wrapped/packaged and labeled per your country’s regulations.
- If a cosmetic is misbranded, it will be disqualified.
- Labeling for bath Salts/Soaks must include directions for safe use, including any necessary warnings.
Submittal of Cosmetic Samples and Documentation
- If submitting these samples at the Annual Conference, the samples and documents must be submitted to the Certification Committee Table by close of the regularly scheduled conference registration to allow time to process and judge the cosmetics.
- If cosmetic samples and documents will be submitted at a time other than at the Annual Conference, contact the HSCG office for the correct mailing address for the judge evaluating the samples. Please package all samples carefully so they will arrive undamaged.
- No cosmetic samples or documents will be returned.
Criteria for Evaluation
The criteria for the evaluation of the cosmetic samples are listed below. You may also review the Cosmetic Sample Evaluation Sheets which will be used by the judges.
- Technical Aspects (70%)
- Weight (Pass/Fail): The cosmetic sample must weigh or measure within its required weight and no less than its stated weight or the sample will be considered misbranded and disqualified
- Scent (10%): The cosmetic sample should have a pleasing scent and be free of any off-odors.
- Color (10%): Color additives are properly incorporated into the product to create the desired impression. For those samples without color additives, the color of the product should be uniform and typical for the product.
- Visual Appearance (20%): Bath salts/soaks should be well mixed with little or no separation or clumping of ingredients. Lotion bars/melts and lip balm/gloss should be uniform in color without dimples, graininess or overpour.
- Physical Consistency and Performance (30%): Bath salts/soaks should be free flowing without clumping or excessive oiliness. They should dissolve easily in warm water without leaving residual silt, fragrance or a ring of color behind. Lotion bars/melts and lip balm should be smooth, firm and unyielding when pressure is applied. They should not be tacky, sticky or grainy. They should not have break or fault lines from topping off. Lotion bars/melts should glide on easily, yet not drip or smear upon application. They should melt on contact with the skin, be fully absorbed within 5 minutes and make a noticeable difference to the skin’s texture. Lip balms should leave a long-lasting, protective matte finish on the lips. Lip gloss may be softer. It may be whipped or poured into appropriate containers. It should glide on smoothly and not be tacky or sticky upon the lips. It should leave a lustrous shine and slight tint upon the lips.
- Labeling (10%): Labeling must be in accordance with country of manufacture labeling requirements or the cosmetic sample will be disqualified. Failure to provide directions for use and/or warnings in bath products will constitute a fail. Any statements or claims for the intended use of the product which render the product an unapproved new drug will also constitute a fail.
- Product identity: (Pass/Fail): Of Cosmetic on principal display panel.
- Net Weight (Pass/Fail): In proper units on principal display panel.
- Manufacturer’s contact information (Pass/Fail): Name and street address.
- Listing of ingredients (Pass/fail): In proper order with proper INCI names on information panel.
- Directions for Use (10%): Bath salts/soaks must include directions for safe use and any necessary warnings.
- Documentation (20%): All documents must be submitted or the cosmetic sample will be disqualified.
- Recipe Calculation (5%): Provide recipe showing calculations for all ingredients, including percentages of each ingredient in the formula.
- Batch Code Sheet (5%): Complete the attached form for ingredients; Outline the necessary directions and steps required to successfully create a finished product.
- SDS (5%): Provide for all ingredients.
- Process Description (5%): Attach your own record of data collected during the cosmetic making and finishing steps that are appropriate for the specific recipe/cosmetic. The record of data shall include a written description of how the cosmetic was made, stating relevant temperatures, time and conditions and any other factors experienced in making the product.
Terms & Definitions
These are the terms and concepts that a person taking the HSCG Basic Cosmetic Maker Exam would be expected to know and understand.
General Knowledge
- Acid.
- When an acid dissolves in water, the pH of the solution is less than 7. This solution is considered acidic.
- Alkali.
- When an alkali dissolves in water, the pH of the solution is greater than 7. This solution is considered alkaline. Alkali is a synonym for base.
- Avoirdupois Ounce.
- Abbreviated oz, is a unit of weight normally used for measuring liquids. It is equal to the weight of one fluid ounce of water.
- Base.
- When a base dissolves in water, the pH of the solution is greater than 7. This solution is considered basic. Base is a synonym for alkaline.
- Butters.
- Triglycerides that are typically solid at room temperature with a melting point just below that of the human body.
- Caustic.
- The corrosive effect of a chemical on another material or living tissue. Caustic can refer to an acid or a base, but is typically used to describe the action of a base.
- Fixed Oil.
- An oil that can be heated without volatilizing or evaporating at atmospheric pressure. Common cosmetic fixed oils include coconut, palm and olive oils.
- Flash Point.
- The lowest temperature at which a liquid may be ignited. The ignition source might be a spark, flame, or hot surface.
- Gross Weight.
- Total weight of the container and contents.
- Melt Point.
- The temperature at which a solid becomes a liquid.
- Net Weight.
- Weight of the contents in a container, not counting the weight of the container or lid.
- pH.
- Refers to the acidity or basicity of a chemical typically dissolved in water. The measurement scale goes from 0 (strongly acidic) to 14 (strongly basic) with pH of 7 representing neutral condition. Alkaline water solutions have pH values higher than 7.0 and acidic water solutions have pH values lower than 7.0. Neutral water has a pH of 7.0.
- Tare.
- Weight of an empty vessel or container. The tare weight is subtracted from the gross weight to get the net weight.
- Temper.
- To bring to a desired consistency, texture or hardness. In the case of shea and other butters, tempering the butter helps alleviate the graininess found when the fatty acids in shea butter are allowed to remain separate upon solidifying.
Scent/Additives
- Additives.
- Any ingredient added in small amounts to a cosmetic formula to improve, strengthen or otherwise alter it. Examples of additives in a cosmetic formula are colorants, fragrances, herbs, vitamin complexes and preservatives.
- Essential Oil.
- An undiluted volatile oil extracted from plant matter by distillation, expression, or solvent extraction.
- Flavor Oil.
- Aromatic, highly concentrated fragrance oils specifically designed to be safe for use in food and products that may be ingested.
- Fragrance Oil.
- A blend of aromatic chemicals, synthetic or natural, that may be diluted with a carrier such as propylene glycol, vegetable oil, or mineral oil.
Regulatory
- Batch Record.
- A checklist and summary of all actions actually taken when producing a batch of product based on a Master Formula.
- Complaint File.
- A record of a customer’s complaint, the date of the complaint and the action taken to address the complaint.
- Master Formula.
- A document or set of documents stipulating the starting materials with their quantities and the packaging materials, together with a description of the methods and safety measures required to produce a specified quantity of a finished product as well as the processing instructions, including the in-process controls.
- Net or Net Contents.
- The amount of product not including the container, which may be required to be stated as weight or as volume, depending upon the product.
- SDS.
- The abbreviation for Safety Data Sheet (previously called Material Safety Data Sheet or MSDS). The sheet contains up to 16 categories of information on the hazardous properties of the material, first aid measures, spill containment and cleanup procedures, disposal considerations, regulatory information, and other important information. The sheets are available from vendors who sell these materials. For each material used by the soapmaker, a SDS should be available for reference by the soapmaker, employees, or emergency responders.
United States
- CPSC.
- An abbreviation for the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), an independent US Government agency that protects the public from unreasonable risks of serious injury or death from thousands of types of consumer products under its jurisdiction, including soap.
- FDA or USFDA.
- The abbreviation for the Food and Drug Administration. An agency of Health and Human services charged with the duty to inspect, test, approve, and set safety standards for foods and food additives, drugs, biologics, cosmetics, household and medical devices, veterinary products, tobacco products, and devices that emit radiation.
- FTC.
- The abbreviation for the Federal Trade Commission, the US government agency responsible for enforcing the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act, including the “Made in the USA” slogan. The agency also accepts and investigates complaints of fraud in commerce, including non-receipt of items purchased online.
- NIST.
- The acronym for the National Institute of Standards and Technology, a division of the US Department of Commerce responsible for enforcing laws and regulations regarding product labeling and net weight.
- USDA.
- The abbreviation for the United States Department of Agriculture, which regulates animal care products and organic products.
- USDOT.
- The abbreviation for the United States Department of Transportation, the regulatory agency responsible for enforcing laws regarding the transportation of hazardous chemicals on US interstate highways.
Resources & References
These are basic references & resources which should provide a cosmetic maker with the knowledge necessary to prepare for the HSCG Basic Cosmetic Maker Certification Exam. Note: Links generally open in a new window or tab.
General Knowledge
Books:
Ahnet, Petra. Beeswax Alchemy: How to Make Your Own Soap, Candles, Balms, Creams and Salves from the Hive. Quarry Books: February 15, 2015.
Family Traditions Publishing. The Bath and Body Book: DIY Bath Bombs, Bath Salts, Body Butter and Body Scrubs. Family Traditions Publishing: November 5, 2014. (Available at Amazon; click here)
Additional books available in the HSCG Store.
Websites:
Brambleberry. Soap Queen. Lip Product Tutorials
Chemists Corner, Practical Cosmetic Formulating.
From Nature With Love, Recipe Database
HSCG. Cut to the Trace Ezine
HSCG Learning Library: How to Make Lip Balm
Making Soap, Cosmetics & Candles Magazine
Saffire Blue, Inc. Formulary
Health and Safety:
Environment, Health, and Safety Online. Definition of Terms Used in Material Safety Data Sheets
Interactive Learning Paradigms Incorporated. Definition of Hazardous Materials Identification System (HMIS) Terms.
Good Manufacturing Practices
Books:
Gale, Marie. Good Manufacturing Practices for Soap and Cosmetic Handrafters. Cinnabar Press: Broadbent, Oregon, 2012. (Available in the HSCG Store; click here)
Websites:
ASEAN Cosmetics Association. Good Manufacturing Practices Training Modules.
Health Canada/Consumer Product Safety. Good Manufacturing Practices for Cosmetic Products
U.S. FDA/CFSAN. Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practice Inspection Checklist (2008).
U.S. FDA/CFSAN. Draft Guidance: Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practice (2013).
International Standards Organization. ISO 22716:2007 Cosmetics -- Good Manufacturing Practices. (Available from ISO.org; click here)
HSCG How-To Library: Legal ComplianceLabeling, Cosmetic Regulations
Books:
Gale, Marie. Soap and Cosmetic Labeling: How to Follow the Rules and Regs Explained in Plain English. Cinnabar Press, 3rd Edition: Oregon, 2015. (Available in the HSCG Store; click here)
Personal Care Products Council. Labeling Manual, 9th Edition (Available from the Personal Care Products Council; click here)
Websites:
US FDA. FDA Authority Over Cosmetics
US FDA. Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics
US FDA. Key Legal Concepts: Interstate Commerce, Adulterated, and Misbranded
US FDA. Cosmetic Labeling Guide
US FDA. Small Businesses & Homemade Cosmetics: Fact Sheet
US FDA. Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act)
US FDA. Labeling Regulations: CFR Title 21, Part 701
US FDA. Fragrances in Cosmetics
Health Canada/Consumer Product Safety. Labelling of Cosmetics
Health Canada/Consumer Product Safety. Guide to Cosmetic Ingredient Labelling
Health Canada/Consumer Product Safety. Cosmetics. Regulatory Information
Competition Bureau Canada. Guide to the Consumer Packaging and Labelling Act and Regulations
European Commission/Enterprise and Industry. Cosmetic Ingredients
European Commission/Enterprise and Industry. Regulation (ED) No 1223/2009 on Cosmetic Products
Additional Materials:
More materials will be developed as time permits. Suggestions for additional certification study materials should be sent HSCG Certification Director at certification@soapguild.org.
