Expert Certification - Overview
Expert Level Soapmaker Certification is the third level of certification for all HSCG certified soapmakers. To become an HSCG Expert Soapmaker, member candidates must pass a rigorous three-part exam. This exam evaluates the knowledge and experience of the soapmaker, along with their ability to research and investigate new areas. Expert certification is offered separately for CP/HP and MP handcrafted soapmaking processes.
To be admitted to the Expert Certification program, a soapmaker must first have achieved the level of Advanced Soapmaker in that same soapmaking process by successfully completing all requirements with a score of 85% or higher and must be a current member of the HSCG.
The three Parts of the exam are:
Part 1:
To assess the soapmaker's skill in handcrafted soapmaking processes by submitting soap samples and documents in accordance with exam criteria. Appropriate samples will be required to demonstrate proficiency at an expert level.
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Part 2:
To assess the soapmaker's knowledge of soapmaking raw materials, chemistry, formulation, and creative techniques by completing short essays on a selected group of topics appropriate for each process.
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Part 3:
To assess the soapmaker's awareness of the larger picture of soap and soapmaking beyond handcrafted soap by writing a report on a topic related to commercial soapmaking/soapmakers, markets, regulations, etc.
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Each Part is scored according to an appropriate point system with a score of 85% or higher required to pass that Part. Each Part must be passed in order to become certified as an Expert Soapmaker.
Administration
This HSCG staff member appointed as the Certification Program Director will oversee the administration of the Expert Soapmaker Certification Program. She will accept and approve registrations for the Expert program, track progress, and issue certificates. Any questions about the program should be addressed to the Certification Program Director.
Judges Panel
A Judges Panel will be assembled as needed, made up of qualified soapmakers in the field to be judged. The Panel will function for the purpose of evaluating exams, papers, and/or samples submitted for the Expert Certification program. They will assess and assign points to written exams and papers and evaluate the soap samples per the requirements set by the program. They will also be involved in approving topics for the research and the topical report before the candidate proceeds with their work.
Program Time Limits
The certification requirements must be met within one year after the date the candidate registers in the Expert Certification program. A written request for an extension along with a schedule for completion may be submitted to the Program Manager. She, in coordination with the appointed Judges Panel, will accept or deny the request.
Order of Implementation
The order of start or completion of these Parts is at the will of the candidate. The Parts can be completed one at a time, or two or more can be in progress at the same time. The candidate needs to inform the Certification Program Director of their exam plan when registering, to allow planning for Judges Panels. The candidate must inform the Certification Program Manager of changes to this exam plan if they occur.
Study Material
As currently structured, this is a self-taught course of study. The candidate is expected to review the requirements for each Part and determine what areas are needed for study. Lists of suggested Reference materials have been compiled and are available in the Certification Section of the HSCG Website (Member Area). Additional material may be found by conducting online searches, attending HSCG Conferences, online forums, and asking knowledgeable soapmakers. The candidate may also conduct their own research to develop their expertise. It is the candidate's responsibility to assess the quality and correctness of information they receive through these routes.
Program Requirements
Following is a brief overview summary of the program requirements. Additional details may be found is the Certification Section of the HSCG website (Member Area).
Part 1 - Soap Evaluation
Purpose: To assess the soapmaker's skill in handcrafted soapmaking processes by submitting artisan, milk and liquid soap samples and documents in accordance with exam criteria. Appropriate samples will be required from each process.
Requirements: Samples of soaps will be required for submittal to the Judges Panel. All samples should be submitted as a group. Each soap sample has its own criteria to be met, and will be judged for its superior quality and craftsmanship, along with record keeping, process description, and adherence to labeling requirements.
Scoring and Grading: Each sample will be evaluated by the Judges Panel according to a score sheet that assigns points to features and appearance of the soap, labeling, and documentation. Each sample can achieve a maximum score of 100 points corresponding to 100%. Each sample needs to achieve a minimum of 85 points (85%) in order to pass.
Part 1 is passed if each soap sample has a score of 85% or greater. Part 1 is failed if one or more soaps have a score less than 85%.
For complete details see Expert Certification CP/HP Soap Evaluation and Expert Certification MP Soap Evaluation.
Part 2 - Essay Exam
Purpose: To assess the soapmaker's knowledge of soapmaking raw materials, chemistry, formulation, and creative techniques by completing short essays on a selected group of topics appropriate for each process.
Requirements: The candidate will have a set of 20 questions to answer in essay format in a three-hour timed exam. These questions will be selected from a group of questions that are available to members for their study.
The questions are on topics that are critical to soapmaking, and the answer should demonstrate that the candidate has a firm grasp of the topic. Each answer will be a brief written essay of a page long, outlining concept, thought process, and/or calculations. It is important that the candidate expresses their knowledge of the topic in a concise and orderly manner.
This exam will be available at the HSCG Annual Conference and may also be administered by a Proctor (see Proctor Exams - Overview & Rules).
Scoring and Grading: Each essay will be evaluated by the Judges Panel and points awarded for content and clarity of presentation of information. Each essay can achieve a maximum score of 100 points corresponding to 100%. Each essay needs to achieve a minimum of 85 points (85%) in order to pass.
Part 2 is passed if each essay has a score of 85% or greater. Part 2 is failed if one or more essays have a score less than 85%.
For complete details see Expert Certification CP/HP Essay Questions and Expert Certification MP Essay Questions.
Part 3 - Topical Report
Purpose: To assess the soapmaker's awareness of the larger picture of soap and soapmaking beyond handcrafted soap by writing a report on a topic related to commercial soapmaking/soapmakers, markets, regulations, etc.
Requirements: The candidate will submit a proposal to the Judges Panel with their selection of a topic that examines the larger picture of soap and soapmaking beyond handcrafted soap. The topic should be of great interest to handcrafted soapmakers and expand awareness of the place of soap in the world. The proposal should provide a statement of the topic and its significance, along with the scope of their study. The Judges Panel will assess the proposal and either accept it, offer comments to improve it or reject it.
Once approved by the Judges Panel, the candidate can proceed with their study. Their work should be presented in a written report to the Judges Panel. The Judges Panel will not act as advisors to the candidate concerning how the work is conducted and conclusions of the study.
Scoring and Grading: The report will be evaluated by the Panel and points awarded for approach, content, discussion, and clarity of presentation.
A report can achieve a maximum score of 100 points corresponding to 100%. The report needs to achieve a minimum of 85 points (85%) to pass.
Part 3 is passed if the report has a score of 85% or greater. Part 3 is failed if the report has a score less than 85%.
For complete details see Expert Certification Topical Report.
Completion of Requirements
Upon passing all three parts of the Expert Certification, a candidate will be awarded the level of Expert Soapmaker in their particular process of CP/HP or MP. The member will receive a certificate for their use. The member also has permission to use the HSCG Certified Expert Soapmaker logo appropriate for their soapmaking process.
Reports and research projects may be published in the HSCG Journal and/or posted to the HSCG website.
This certification is valid as long as the member is in good standing with the HSCG. If the soapmaker is no longer an HSCG member, then they can no longer claim to be certified by the HSCG and should immediately stop using and displaying the certificate and logos.
Updated April, 2017
Sample Soap Requirements
Specifications for the soap sample are as follows.
A. Recipes
Recipe #1: Milk-Based Bar Soap
- Produce a bar of milk-based soap using cold process saponification.
- Prepare a cow, or goat milk-lye solution of which milk composes 100 percent of the liquid portion of the solution. Condensed or powdered milk may be used, along with water to reconstitute the milk.
- Formulate recipe with at least three different oils/fats/butters.
- Select and calculate your own lye discount and milk content.
- Do not add any fragrance, color, or other additives.
- The bar should weigh 3.5 to 5.5-oz, and be either individually molded or cut from a log or block.
Recipe #2: Transparent Liquid Soap
- Produce a sample of transparent liquid soap with color and fragrance using hot process
saponification.
- Formulate recipe with at least three different oils/fats/butters.
- Use of alcohol, glycerin, preservative or chelating agents in your recipe is your choice. Ethanol or isopropanol alcohol can be used. Sorbitol, sugar or propylene glycol cannot be used.
- If using a neutralizing ingredient, select from these three: citric acid, boric acid, or borax.
- Final water content of liquid soap solution is your choice and should result in an acceptable lather.
- Thickening aids and additives, such as surfactants, cellulose derivatives, carrageenan, salt etc. are not to be added. Superfatting additives such as sulfonated "turkey red" castor oil are not to be added.
- Color and fragrance are to be added.
- Package in an 8-fluid oz clear colorless plastic bottle with a disc-style top.
Recipe #3: Artistic Soap
- Produce an artistic soap with color, fragrance, and additives using your choice of saponification process.
- Create a unique and complex design or pattern in the soap such as intricate swirling or marbling, creative combinations of layering, soap embeds, whipped frosting, and other forms of artistic expression using soap, color, and additives.
- Formulate recipe with at least three different oils/fats/butters.
- Select and calculate your own recipe.
- Color, fragrance, and additives are your choice.
- The soap should weigh 3.5 to 5.5-oz.
B. Labeling
- Each soap must be appropriately wrapped/packaged and labeled per soapmaker's country's regulations.
- If a soap is adulterated or misbranded, it will be disqualified.
C. Documentation
- Recipe calculations illustrating how the amounts of all ingredients were calculated. A copy of the soapmaker's own calculations, either handwritten or typed are acceptable documents. The use of lye calculators is not allowed.
- Batch Code Sheet with the batch number, recipe ingredients, and amounts used. Use the form attached to provide this information. Also use this form when making soap embeds to record their information separately.
- Include a SDS for each ingredient used in recipe, except water, herbs, and botanicals.
- Attach on a separate sheet, your record of data collected during the soapmaking and finishing steps appropriate for the specific soap recipe. The record of data should include a written description of how the soap was made stating relevant temperatures, times, conditions, and residual alkalinity test results.
- The soapmaker needs to test the soap for residual alkalinity to confirm it is safe for use. For some of these soaps, it is more appropriate to measure the residual alkalinity before the addition of color and/or fragrance. Perform an alkalinity test using phenolphthalein. If any excess alkali is present, perform a titration to measure the residual alkali and report the amount of residual alkali in your batch code records. Provide an account of your test method covering sample preparation, measurement, calculation steps and any remedial action.
Submittal of Soap Samples and Documentation
- If submitting these soap samples at the Annual Conference, the soap samples and documents can be submitted to the Certification Table. Please submit as soon as possible so evaluations can be made in a timely manner.
- If soap samples and documents will be submitted at a time other than at the Annual Conference, contact the HSCG office for the correct mailing address for the judge evaluating the soaps. Please package the soap carefully so it will arrive undamaged. Soap and documents will not be returned.
Scoring of Soap Samples
- Each criterion of the evaluation has percentage points assigned to it. The maximum score per soap is 100 percentage points
- Each soap must score 85 percentage points or higher to pass its individual exam. Every soap must pass in order to pass the Soap Evaluation Part.
- If a soap is deemed to be adulterated or misbranded, it will be automatically disqualified.
The HSCG Expert MP Certification requires the submission of four (4) soap samples which meet very exact criteria.
Each soap is judged based on a Soap Evaluation Sheet, which specifies the points for each aspect of the soap, labeling,
and required documentation. Each soap may receive up to 100 points; 85 points is required for the soap to pass. Every
soap must pass on its own merits in order to pass the Soap Sample portion of the HSCG Expert MP Certification Program.
You can review the Soap Evaluation Sheets
for the MP Expert Level Soap Samples to see exactly how the sample soaps are evaluated and scored.
Sample Soap and Documentation Requirements
Specifications for the 4 sample soaps are as follows.
A. Recipes
Recipe #1: Molded Soap with Two Layers Containing Additives
- Produce a molded soap with two layers.
- One layer contains added oil, such as olive oil. The second layer contains clay.
- Project must be completed using clear soap base, oil, and clay.
- Fragrance of your choosing is to be added.
- Soap should have a net weight in the range of 3.5 to 5.5 oz (100 to 156 grams).
Recipe #2: Loaf with Soap Embeds
- Produce a loaf using at least two soap embeds that extend the length of the loaf.
- Smaller soap embeds can be added scattered around the larger embeds.
- Embeds are to be made by you and can be made from your choice of base but must be embedded in a clear or extra clear mp base.
- Fragrance and color of your choosing are to be added.
- Submit a soap slice with a net weight in the range of 3.5 to 5.5 oz (100 to 156 grams).
Recipe #3: Loaf with Swirling and Multiple Layers
- Produce a loaf demonstrating multiple layering along with swirling technique in two or more layers.
- Swirling refers to pouring several different colored soaps at the same time or one colored soap on top of the other colored soap, and then swirling one into the other soap with autensil.
- Layers do not need to be horizontal. At least three layers should be made.
- Project must be completed using clear or extra clear mp base in one swirled layer and opaque mp base in the other swirled layer.
- Your choice of fragrance and color are to be added.
- Submit a soap slice with a net weight in the range of 3.5 to 5.5 oz (100 to 156 grams).
Recipe #4: Artistic Soap
- Produce an artistic creative soap with color, fragrance, and additives.
- Create a unique and complex design, pattern, and/or shape with a minimum of two techniques such as intricate layering combined with embeds, swirling, whipped soap, or different shapes.
- The soap still has to be functional in that it could be used as soap.
- Your choice of soap bases.
- Fragrance and color are to be added. Your choice for selection of fragrance and colorants.
- Soap should have a net weight in the range of 3.5 to 7.0 oz (100 to 200 grams).
B. Labeling
- Each soap must be appropriately wrapped/packaged and labeled per soapmaker's country's regulations.
- If a soap is adulterated or misbranded, it will be disqualified.
C. Documentation
- Recipe calculations illustrating how the amounts of all ingredients were calculated. A copy of the soapmaker?s own calculations, either handwritten or typed are acceptable documents. The use of lye calculators is not allowed. Attach a copy of the soap base ingredient list provided by the supplier/manufacturer.
- Batch Code Sheet with the batch number, recipe ingredients, and amounts used. Use the form attached to provide this information.
- Include a SDS for each ingredient used in recipe, except water, herbs, and botanicals.
- Attach on a separate sheet, your record of data collected during the soapmaking and finishing steps appropriate for the specific soap recipe. The record of data should include a written description of how the soap was
Submittal of Soap Samples and Documentation
- If submitting these soap samples at the Annual Conference, the soap samples and documents can be submitted to the Certification Table. Please submit as soon as possible so evaluations can be made in a timely manner.
- If soap samples and documents will be submitted at a time other than at the Annual Conference, contact the HSCG office for the correct mailing address for the judge evaluating the soaps. Please package the soap carefully so it will arrive undamaged. Soap and documents will not be returned.
Scoring of Soap Samples
- Each criterion of the evaluation has percentage points assigned to it. The maximum score per soap is 100 percentage points.
- Each soap must score 85 percentage points or higher to pass its individual exam. Every soap must pass in order to pass the Soap Evaluation Part.
- If a soap is deemed to be adulterated or misbranded, it will be automatically disqualified.
The second part of the HSCG Expert Level Certification Program is a written examination.
Purpose
To assess the soapmaker's knowledge of soapmaking raw materials, chemistry, formulation, and creative techniques by
completing short essays on a selected group of topics appropriate for each process.
Rules
Each written exam will consist of 20 questions selected from the topics below. Questions will be comprised of short essay questions, calculations, and short answers. Some questions may be two-part questions. Each part of the two-part questions will
be graded separately and count as two questions. Tests will be randomly generated by a computer program.
The exam duration is 3 hours
Topics
Calculations
- A liquid soap sample weighing 51.4 grams required 0.29 grams of a 20% citric acid solution to change the phenolphthalein pH indicator from pink to clear, indicating neutrality. How much citric acid solution is required to neutralize the remaining 128 oz of liquid soap?
- A liquid soap sample weighing 55.2 grams required 2 grams of a 20% citric acid solution to change the phenolphthalein pH indicator from pink to clear, indicating neutrality. How much citric acid solution is required to neutralize the remaining 164 oz of liquid soap?
- A liquid soap sample weighing 52.9 grams required 0.9 grams of a 20% citric acid solution to change the phenolphthalein pH indicator from pink to clear, indicating neutrality. How much citric acid solution is required to neutralize the remaining 148 oz of liquid soap?
- It takes 6.9 grams of sodium hydroxide to neutralize 10.55 grams of citric acid. Calculate the strength of the sodium hydroxide (Round the answer up to the nearest 0.1 percent).
- It takes 7.3 grams sodium hydroxide to neutralize 10.75 grams citric acid. Calculate the strength of the sodium hydroxide. (Round the answer up to the nearest 0.1 percent).
- It takes 7.2 grams sodium hydroxide to neutralize 10.95 grams citric acid. Calculate the strength of the sodium hydroxide. (Round the answer up to the nearest 0.1 percent).
- It takes 10.12 grams potassium hydroxide to neutralize 10.55 grams citric acid. Calculate the strength of the potassium hydroxide. (Round the answer up to the nearest 0.1 percent).
- It takes 10.55 grams of potassium hydroxide to neutralize 10.60 grams of citric acid. Calculate the strength of the potassium hydroxide. (Round the answer up to the nearest 0.1 percent).
- It takes 10.8 grams of potassium hydroxide to neutralize 10.50 grams of citric acid. Calculate the strength of the potassium hydroxide. (Round the answer up to the nearest 0.1 percent).
Calculations
- A recipe calls for 10 oz of water and 4 oz of sodium hydroxide. If making a brine solution, what is the maximum amount of salt that can be used in the recipe to ensure all salt and sodium hydroxide is dissolved in the mixture?
- A recipe calls for 18 oz of water and 9 oz of sodium hydroxide. If making a brine solution, what is the maximum amount of salt that can be used in the recipe to ensure all salt and sodium hydroxide is dissolved in the mixture?
- A recipe calls for 12 oz of water and 6 oz of sodium hydroxide. If making a brine solution, what is the maximum amount of salt that can be used in the recipe to ensure all salt and sodium hydroxide is dissolved in the mixture?
Calculations and Legal Compliance
- Part 1. Create a cold process soap recipe using 4 of the 8 oils, fats, butters, and waxes listed below. Use the back of this page to show calculations. Amount of superfat, water, and any other additives should be calculated to achieve a bar with acceptable hardness and a stable shelf life. Based on the recipe created, describe how this blend of ingredients is expected to behave in the soap pot, any steps taken in the recipe to prevent "bad" behavior, and the properties the finished soap is expected to have.
- Olive Oil = SAP Value 190.0
- Evening Primrose Oil = SAP Value 195.5
- Palm Kernel Oil = SAP Value 242.0
- Almond Oil = SAP Value 194.0
- Beef Tallow = SAP Value 195.0
- Palm Oil = SAP Value 199.5
- Avocado Oil = SAP Value 187.5
- Kokum Butter = SAP Value 192.0
Part 2.On the back of this page, along with the calculations, create a label to be compliant with cosmetic labeling regulations for this soap.
- Part 1. Create a liquid soap recipe using 4 of the 8 oils, fats butters and waxes listed below. Use the back of this page to show calculations. Amount of potassium or sodium hydroxide, water, glycerin, and any other additives should be calculated to achieve a liquid soap with acceptable clarity, cleansing ability, and shelf life. Indicate whether or not this soap will need to be neutralized. Based on the recipe created, describe how this blend of ingredients is expected to behave in the soap pot, any steps taken in the recipe to prevent "bad" behavior, and the properties the finished soap is expected to have.
- Cocoa Butter = SAP Value 196.5
- Castor Oil = SAP Value 181.5
- Coconut Oil = SAP Value 256.5
- Grapeseed Oil = SAP Value 191.0
- High Oleic Safflower Oil = SAP Value 190.5
- Lard = SAP Value 197.5
- Rice Bran Oil = SAP Value 185.0
- Jojoba Oil = SAP Value 92.0
Part 2. On the back of this page, along with the calculations, create a label to be compliant with cosmetic labeling regulations for this soap.
- Part 1. Create a milk soap recipe using 4 of the 8 oils, fats, butters, and waxes listed below. Use the back of this page to show calculations. Amount of superfat, water, milk, and any other additives should be calculated to achieve a bar with acceptable hardness and a stable shelf life. Based on the recipe created describe how this blend of ingredients is expected to behave in the soap pot, any steps taken in the recipe to prevent "bad" behavior, and the properties the finished soap is expected to have.
- Butter Fat = SAP Value 221.0
- Beeswax = SAP Value 95.5
- Apricot Kernel Oil = SAP Value 192.0
- Hydrogenated Soybean Oil = SAP Value 192.0
- High Oleic Sunflower Oil = SAP Value 188.0
- Palm Kernel Oil = SAP Value 242.0
- Beef Tallow = SAP Value 195.0
- Mango Butter = SAP Value 191.5
Part 2. On the back of this page, along with the calculations, create a label to be compliant with cosmetic labeling regulations for this soap.
- Part 1. Create a shampoo bar soap recipe using 4 of the 8 oils, fats, butters, and waxes listed below. Use the back of this page to show calculations. Amount of superfat, water, and any other additives should be calculated to achieve a bar with acceptable hardness and a stable shelf life. Based on the recipe created describe how this blend of ingredients is expected to behave in the soap pot, any steps taken in the recipe to prevent "bad" behavior, and the properties the finished soap is expected to have.
- Hydrogenated Cottonseed Oil = SAP Value 193.5
- Argan Oil = SAP Value 192.0
- Neem Oil = SAP Value 199.5
- Castor Oil = SAP Value 181.5
- Sheanut Butter - SAP Value 188.0
- Corn Oil = SAP Value 191.0
- Babassu Oil = SAP Value 250.5
- Olive Oil = SAP Value 190.0
Part 2. On the back of this page, along with the calculations, create a label to be compliant with cosmetic labeling regulations for this soap.
- Part 1. Create a soap recipe for swirling a difficult, time-consuming swirl using 4 of the 8 oils, fats, butters, and waxes listed below. Use the back of this page to show calculations. Amount of superfat, water, and any other additives should be calculated to achieve a bar with acceptable hardness and a stable shelf life. Based on the recipe created describe how this blend of ingredients is expected to behave in the soap pot, any steps taken in the recipe to prevent "bad" behavior, and the properties the finished soap is expected to have.
- Palm Oil = SAP Value 199.0
- Coconut Oil = SAP Value 256.5
- High Oleic Sunflower Oil = SAP Value 188.0
- Castor Oil = SAP Value 181.5
- Beef Tallow = SAP Value 195.0
- Sheanut Butter = SAP Value 188.0
- Almond Oil = SAP Value 194.0
- Apricot Kernel Oil = SAP Value 192.0
Part 2. On the back of this page, along with the calculations, create a label to be compliant with cosmetic labeling regulations for this soap.
Soapmaking Terms
- What are the IFRA Standards?
- In the IFRA Standards, what is meant when an essential oil or fragrance component is "restricted"?
- In the IFRA Standards, what is meant when an essential oil or fragrance component is "prohibited"?
- In the IFRA Standards, what is meant when an essential oil or fragrance component is "specified"?
Terms
- What is meant by the term "wildcrafted"?
- What is meant by the term "organic"?
- What is a surfactant?
- What is meant by the term "fair trade?"
- What is a specification sheet, when is one obtained, what information can be found on it?
- What is specific gravity? What impact does specific gravity have on essential oils?
- Are the terms "rebatched" and "French milled" interchangeable? Why or why not? Explain the rebatching process and French milling process.
Chemistry and Soapmaking Knowledge
- Give three reasons why liquid soap may cloud. In each case, what can be done to correct it?
- Describe how to test for clarity in liquid soap. What should be the next step if the soap sample passes the test? What should be the next step if the soap sample fails the test?
- What causes free fatty acids to precipitate out of solution and fall to the bottom of a bottle of liquid soap in the form of a white sludge?
Chemistry and Soapmaking Knowledge
- What does it mean when a soapmaker master batches the oils?
- If master batching lye solutions, what is the easiest ratio of sodium hydroxide-to-water to use? Why?
Chemistry and Soapmaking Knowledge
- If making a soap high in olive oil, should a low water lye solution or a high water lye solution be used? Why?
- Should a low water lye solution or a high water lye solution be used to prevent a soap from gelling? Why?
- Will it take a longer amount of time, shorter amount of time, or the same amount of time to cure a CP soap with a high water lye solution? Why?
- Will it take a longer amount of time, shorter amount of time, or the same amount of time to cure a CP soap with a low water lye solution?
- Which traces quicker: a low water lye solution or a high water lye solution? Why?
Additives: Color, Fragrance, Botanicals
- When is the best time to incorporate additives (other than color and fragrance) into liquid soap? Why?
- What color additives work best in liquid soap? Why?
- Why are botanicals, such as flower petals and herb leaves usually not added to liquid soap?
- When adding fragrance and/or essential oils to liquid soaps, is the amount to add determined? What are the visual signs the fragrance and/or essential oils may not be compatible with the liquid soap?
- List three of the most common reasons fragrance and/or essential oils may not be compatible with liquid soap.
- Why is it difficult to maintain the appearance of flower petals and herb leaves in CP Soap?
- Is it necessary to add a preservative to liquid soap? Why or why not?
Additives: Fragrance
- Under Category 9 of the IFRA Standards, what is the maximum concentration of fragrance or essential oil allowed in a finished product for wash off products?
- Under Category 10 of the IFRA Standards, what is the maximum concentration of fragrance or essential oil allowed in a finished product for cleaning products?
- If an essential oil is prohibited under IFRA Standards, what percentage of the prohibited essential oil is acceptable in the finished soap?
- If an ingredient in a fragrance oil is restricted under IFRA Standards, what percentage of the fragrance oil is acceptable in the finished soap?
- If an essential oil is specified under IFRA Standards, what steps should the crafter take to make sure the essential oil is being used according to specifications?
Additives: Color
- When is an additive that changes the color of the soap not considered a color additive?
- What is a color additive?
Additives: Color, Fragrance, Botanicals
- What is the purpose of adding sugar to CP soap?
- Why add salt to a lye solution when making cold process soap?
- Why add salt to a lye solution when making liquid soap?
Chemical Composition of Raw Ingredients
- Oil A has an iodine value of 104 - 120. Oil B has an iodine value of 91 - 95. Which oil would be more stable in a soap formula?
- The iodine value of oil A is 49 - 55. The iodine value of oil B is 75 - 94. Which oils is more unsaturated?
- The titer of Fat A is 40 - 47 degrees C. The titer of Fat B is 32 - 45 degrees C. Which fat will typically give a harder bar of soap?
- The titer of Fat A is 48 - 52 degrees C. The tire of fat B is 45 - 50 degrees C. Which fat is more saturated?
- The percent of unsaponifiables in oil A is 1 - 12%. The percent of unsaponifiables in oil B is 1 - 2%. Which oil will produce a more transparent liquid soap?
- The percent of unsaponifiables in Fat A is 1 - 3%. The percent of unsaponifiables in Fat B is 2 - 11%. Which fat will be the most nourishing in a CP soap?
Chemical Composition of Raw Ingredients
- What affects the shelf life of an oil? What can be done to extend the shelf life?
- What are the constituents in cow or goat milk that cause saponification to accelerate in CP soapmaking? Describe how to control this effect through various soapmaking techniques.
- What is the purpose of yogurt in hot process soapmaking?
Safety, Handling and Environmental
- The reaction of sodium or potassium hydroxide with various sugars or carbohydrates may produce what poisonous gas?
- The reaction of sodium or potassium hydroxide with certain metals may produce what flammable and explosive gas?
- If left uncovered, what two things absorb into the sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide resulting in a loss of strength?
- Sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are considered hazardous substances. Give several examples of the ramifications that classification has on the handling of these substances.
Safety, Handling and Environmental
- Give examples of Quality Control measures for a handcrafted soap?
- List 5 examples of soapmaking procedures that should have a Standard Operating Procedure in place.
- What are Master Formulas?
Safety, Handling and Environmental
- Discuss how a retain sample should be stored and packaged and for how long. Is a retain sample really necessary?
- How should ingredients and packaging material be stored?
- Explain the purpose of assigning a Lot Number to each incoming ingredient and why it is important?
- Can the same Lot Number be assigned to different shipments of the same product from the same supplier? Why or why not?
Legal Compliance
- What is the regulatory definition of a cosmetic?
- What qualifies a soap as exempt from the FDA definitions of a cosmetic?
- What Agency(ies) regulate a soap that is exempt from the FDA definition of a cosmetic?
Legal Compliance
- What is the regulatory definition of a color additive?
- A crafter creates an all-natural soap and uses activated charcoal, turmeric, and cocoa powder to create swirls. Why shouldn't the soapmaker claim the soap is naturally moisturizing and non-comedogenic?
- Under what circumstances could turmeric, cocoa powder, or sage be legally used to color an MP soap or cosmetic product?
The second part of the HSCG Expert Level Certification Program is a written examination.
Purpose
To assess the soapmaker's knowledge of soapmaking raw materials, chemistry, formulation, and creative techniques by
completing short essays on a selected group of topics appropriate for each process.
Rules
Each written exam will consist of 20 questions, one each from the topics below. The exam questions will be randomly selected
by a computer program.
Each question is to be answered with a brief essay of not more than one page with legible handwriting and single spaced.
The candidate should express knowledge of the topic in a concise and orderly manner and with supporting statements to
demonstrate proficiency of the topic. Calculations may be required. Three (3) hours will be allowed for the exam.
Topics
Questions will be randomly selected from those listed below - one from each topic group. The questions will not be presented in this order.
MP Soap Base
- Is it okay to combine mp soap bases made of different ingredients? Why or why not?
- What are the main differences between purchased MP soap base, and transparent soap made using the hot process method at home?
- What soapmaking method is used to make MP soap base?
MP Soap Base
- What is the main difference between extra clear/crystal clear and clear MP soap base?
- Why is it better to buy MP soap base with added emollients such as goat milk, aloe vera, or shea butter rather than adding these ingredients into a basic MP soap base?
- When using natural color additives, which are not approved color additives, in an MP soap base, what type of soap base must be used in order to comply with governing authorities? Why?
Ingredients in MP Soap Base
- What ingredients are added to MP soap base to make it a suspending base? Are these ingredients considered natural?
- What solvents are used to make MP base? How are they different?
Ingredients in MP Soap Base
- What properties does shea butter add to an MP base?
- What properties does goat milk add to an MP base?
- What properties does stearic acid add to an MP base?
- What properties does myristic acid add to an MP base?
- What properties does safflower oil add to an MP base?
- What properties does coconut oil add to an MP base?
MP Crafting Knowledge
- How does isopropyl alcohol act to adhere layers of MP soap?
- How many times can MP base be remelted? How do you know when the limit has been reached?
- MP base that has been stored has developed a white bloom on the surface. What happened and can the soap be used?
MP Crafting Knowledge
- Some of the problems associated with embedding curls and ribbons are brittleness, separation, and air pockets. Discuss ways to overcome these common problems.
- When creating an MP soap "frosting," what are the most important factors to consider?
- Can fresh fruits or vegetables be added to MP soap? Why or why not?
MP Crafting Knowledge
- When adding poppy seeds to an MP base, describe how they should be prepared before incorporation, how to incorporate, and the temperature range for pouring using a suspension base and the temperature range for pouring using a regular MP base.
- When adding clay to an MP base, describe how it should be prepared before incorporation, how to incorporate, and the temperature range for pouring using a suspension base and the temperature range for pouring using a regular MP base.
Molding
- Without doing calculations, what is an easy way to determine how much MP soap will fit in a mold?
- How long after the pour should an MP soap be placed in the freezer for unmolding? Why?
- Why is it important to not freeze MP soap?
- What is the maximum amount of time an MP soap should be left in the freezer?
- After the soap is unmolded, it develops drops of oil on the surface. What happened?
Terms
- What are the IFRA Standards?
- In the IFRA Standards, what is meant when an essential oil or fragrance component is "restricted?"
- In the IFRA Standards, what is meant when an essential oil or fragrance component is "prohibited?"
- In the IFRA Standards, what is meant when an essential oil or fragrance component is "specified?"
Terms
- What is meant by the term "wildcrafted"?
- What is meant by the term "organic"?
- What is a surfactant?
- What is meant by the term "fair trade?"
- What is a specification sheet, when is one obtained, what information can be found on it?
- What is specific gravity? What impact does specific gravity have on essential oils?
Terms
- What is an anionic surfactant?
- What is meant by the term "unsaponifiable" and what contribution does a fat or oil high in unsaponifiables lend to a soap?
- What is oleic acid? Give three examples of oils high in oleic acid:
- What is linoleic acid? Give three examples of oils high in linoleic acid:
- What is stearic acid? Give three examples of fats high in stearic acid:
Additives
- What are the benefits and drawbacks of adding avocado oil to an MP base?
- Why should a crafter avoid adding oils high in linoleic acid to an MP base?
- If adding additional oils to an MP base, what is the maximum percentage of oil to add? Why?
- List the most common reasons fragrance and/or essential oils may cloud a transparent base.
Additives
- Under Category 9 of the IFRA Standards, what is the maximum concentration of fragrance or essential oil allowed in a finished product for wash off products?
- Under Category 10 of the IFRA Standards, what is the maximum concentration of fragrance or essential oil allowed in a finished product for cleaning products?
- If an essential oil is prohibited under IFRA Standards, what percentage of the prohibited essential oil is acceptable in the finished soap?
- If an ingredient in a fragrance oil is restricted under IFRA Standards, what percentage of the fragrance oil is acceptable in the finished soap?
- If an essential oil is specified under IFRA Standards, what steps should the crafter take to make sure the essential oil is being used according to specifications?
Additives
- When is an additive that changes the color of the soap not considered a color additive?
- What is a color additive?
Additives
- What is the maximum percentage of liquids that should be added to an MP soap base? Why?
- Why is it difficult to maintain the appearance of flower petals and herb leaves in MP base?
- Why should adding sugar or salt to an MP base be avoided?
Safety, Handling and Environmental
- Give examples of Quality Control measures for a handcrafted soap?
- List 5 examples of soapmaking procedures that should have a Standard Operating Procedure in place.
- What are Master Formulas?
Safety, Handling and Environmental
- Discuss how a retain sample should be stored and packaged and for how long. Is a retain sample really necessary?
- How should ingredients and packaging material be stored?
- Explain the purpose of assigning a Lot Number to each incoming ingredient and why it is important?
- Can the same Lot Number be assigned to different shipments of the same product from the same supplier? Why or why not?
Legal Compliance
- If spritzing isopropyl alcohol on embeds, between layers, or when mixing with clays or other powders before incorporating into the MP base, is it necessary to list isopropyl alcohol on the ingredient listing? Why or Why not?
Legal Compliance
- What is the regulatory definition of a cosmetic?
- What qualifies a soap as exempt from the FDA definitions of a cosmetic?
- What Agency(ies) regulate a soap that is exempt from the FDA definition of a cosmetic?
Legal Compliance
- What is the regulatory definition of a color additive?
- A crafter creates an all-natural soap using detergent-free MP base and uses activated charcoal, turmeric, and cocoa powder to create swirls. Why shouldn't the soapmaker claim the soap is naturally moisturizing and non-comedogenic?
- Under what circumstances could turmeric, cocoa powder, or sage be legally used to color an MP soap or cosmetic product?
Purpose
To assess the soapmaker's awareness of the larger picture of soap and soapmaking beyond handcrafted soap by writing a report on a topic related to commercial soapmaking/soapmakers, markets, regulations, etc.
Submittal of Topic
- When the candidate is ready to start this part of the certification, they are to notify the Certification Program Manager who will assign a Judges Panel.
- The candidate explores and selects a topic that examines the larger picture of soap and soapmaking beyond handcrafted soap. The topic should be of great interest to handcrafted soapmakers and expand awareness of the place of soap in the world. It may be selected from the list below, or suggested by the candidate.
Possible Topics:
- Evaluate and compare two surfactants other than soap.
- Olive Oil: How it is produced, the different grades and adulteration of olive oil within the industry
- Stearic Acid: How it is produced, materials used to produce it, the different grades of stearic acid and the best stearic acid for soapmaking.
- GMO: The environmental and political impact of genetically modified oils.
- Fair Trade: How fair trade impacts the handcrafted soapmaking industry.
- The IFRA Standards: A report on the chemical components of 5 frequently used essential oils with specifications placed on them and how to determine the highest percentage allowed in wash-off products.
- Sustainability: Why soapmakers should be committed to the sourcing of sustainable raw materials.
- The candidate prepares a proposal to submit to the Judges Panel for review of the topic before proceeding. Write the topic as a thesis statement that states precisely what is to be investigated and why it is important. Next note the major subtopics that will be investigated. And include the estimated date for submittal of the completed project. Requirements for the proposal?s outline and format are given below.
- The candidate submits the topic thesis proposal to the Judges Panel. The Judges Panel will assess the proposal and either accept it, offer comments to improve it, or reject it.
- Once approved by the Judges Panel, the candidate proceeds with their research.
Report Proposal Requirements
A. Outline
- Type on separate lines: candidate's name, title of paper, date submitted.
- Part 1 (two-three sentences): Describe topic to be studied and briefly explain its importance to soap makers and the industry at large. Include your thesis statement.
- Part 2 (two-three sentences): Briefly describe/outline the main points to be analyzed in support of your thesis.
- Part 3 (one sentence): Provide estimated date for submittal of completed project.
B. Format
- Language: English
- Document Length: 1 page
- Page Setup: 8-1/2 inch x 11 inch page; 1 inch margins on all sides; left justified
- Line Spacing: Double space
- Paragraph: Indent first line by 1/2 inch
- Font: Arial, Calibri, or other sans serif font that is easily read, font size 10, regular typeface, black
- Submission Format: Submit as electronic file in MS Word document (.doc or .docx) in unprotected mode
Submittal of Topical Report
- Once the research is completed, the candidate submits their topical report to the Judges Panel that details their investigation, results, and insight into their topic. Requirements for the paper's outline and format are given below.
- The Judges Panel will assess the research paper and either accept it, offer comments or request more information, or reject it. Once accepted, the Judges Panel will evaluate the research paper and score it.
- The candidate will receive their research paper back with the Judges' comments and score.
- The topical paper may be published on the HSCG website and/or in the Cut to the Trace eZine.
Topical Report Requirements
A. Outline
- Title Page
- Title of paper
- Candidate's name
- Date submitted
- "Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of Master (choose CP/HP or MP) Soapmaker Certification Requirements"
- Introduction: General introductory statement, thesis statement along with purpose of research, and significance or importance of this research.
- Body of Paper: Organizes the main points (topics) of the research and provides evidence to support claims made, and how that evidence supports these claims.
- Conclusions
- Bibliography: References cited in paper along with other works that were read.
- Appendix
B. Format
- Language: English
- Document Length: 6 to 8 pages; not including Title Page, Bibliography, or Appendix; nor space used by Figures and Tables
- Page Setup: 8-1/2 inch x 11 inch page; 1 inch margins on all sides; left justified
- Line Spacing: Double space
- Paragraph: Indent first line by 1/2 inch
- Font: Arial, Calibri, or other sans serif font that is easily read, font size 10, regular typeface, black
- Page Numbers: Page number only without any words or abbreviations; lower right corner
- Title Page: Centered
- Sections: Bold font, not indented
- Tables: Label with sequential table number (Table 1, Table 2, etc.)
- Figures: Label with sequential figure number (Figure 1, Figure 2, etc.)
- In-text Citations: Follow MLA (Modern Language Association) or APA (American Psychological Association) style
- Bibliography: Follow MLA or APA style
- Submission Format: Electronic file in MS Word document (.doc or .docx) in unprotected mode
Criteria and Scoring
Each aspect of the topical report is scored separately and makes up a certain percentage of the whole grade.
- Introduction (5%)
Introduce the topic to be explored. Clear and concise thesis statement. Introduces significance of this topic to soapmakers.
- Body of Paper (85%)
Clearly demonstrates/proves the thesis and uses evidence to support claims made. Demonstrates they are knowledgeable about the topic.
- Conclusions (5%)
Focused wrap-up of topic and discussion points.
- References (5%)
Formal citation of various external materials cited and used to research and develop topic. Research must contain a minimum of six major references (e.g. books, magazines of the trade and internet sites) to develop the topic. No more than two of the six references can come from the same website.
Scoring
- If paper does not meet the Topical Paper requirements, it will be returned to the candidate for correction.
- Each aspect of the paper has percentage points assigned to it. The maximum score is 100 percentage points.
- Each paper must score 85 percentage points or higher to pass.
Proctored testing was developed in order to make it possible for HSCG members who cannot travel to the Annual Conference to
still become HSCG Certified Soapmakers. By utilizing a proctor to oversee the examination, a member can take a Soapmaker
Certification Examination anywhere in the world. Every HSCG member can take advantage of the HSCG Soapmaker Certification Program.
Proctor: A person appointed to keep watch over students at examinations.
Proctor Qualifications
The Proctor is an individual who agrees to receive the exam, administer it in a preapproved Test Location following HSCG
guidelines, and return all paperwork to the HSCG. The Proctor must verify that the exam was conducted according to the specific
directions of the HSCG.
Examples of individuals who may be acceptable as Proctors are:
- College or university personnel such as deans, department chairs, professors, librarians, or testing center personnel.
- Public or private school personnel such as superintendents, principals, guidance counselors, or teachers.
- Other personnel such as civil service examiners, justice of the peace, public librarians, tutoring center personnel.
Unacceptable Proctors include, but are not limited to, family members, friends, co-workers, supervisors, employers, or anyone with a
potential conflict of interest.
Timeline
Obviously, there are lots of steps necessary to make all the arrangements necessary for a proctored test. The following timeline,
shows the details of the expected timeline before and after the examination.
- Member makes arrangements for a Proctor and Test Location
- Up to 30 days before Exam: Member completes and sends in
Proctored Exam Application Form
- Up to 20 days before Exam: HSCG notifies Member of approval/disapproval
- Up to 10 days before Exam: Member pays the registration fee
and sends in
Registration form for the Certification Test
- Up to 10 days before Exam: Cancellations accepted with refund, minus 25%
- Up to 7 days before Exam: HSCG mails exam to Proctor
- Up to 3 days before Exam: Cancellations are accepted with refund, minus 50%
- Date of Exam: Member takes exam
- Up to 1 day after Exam: Proctor mails exam to HSCG
- Up to 7 days after Receipt of Exam: HSCG notifies examinee of results via email
- Up to 14 days after Receipt of Exam: HSCG mails certificate to examinee
Rules
These rules are also available as a .pdf document.
- Individual exams are conducted under the auspices of the HSCG. All rules and responsibilities contained in this document
must be adhered to in order for the exam to be valid and recognized for HSCG Certification. Failure to comply with the rules
will cause the exam results to be invalid.
- A HSCG Member requests to hold a Certification Exam by arranging for a Proctor and Test Location. The HSCG must receive
the
Proctored Exam Application Form from the Member at least 30 days before the
proposed exam date. The Request can be submitted by mail/email/fax.
- The HSCG may approve or disapprove this request based upon the HSCG's assessment and verification of the Member's membership.
The Member and Proctor will be emailed of the HSCG's approval or disapproval at least 20 days before the proposed exam date.
- Any fees incurred by using a Proctor or the Testing Location are the responsibility of the Member.
- The Member registers for the exam by submitting the
Registration form by mail/email/fax. The Member also needs to pay the registration fee.
Payment may be made online or by phone.
Both Registration and payment must be received by HSCG at least 10 days before the exam date.
- The exam and instructions will be mailed to the Proctor 7 days before the exam date. The Proctor will keep these
documents in safe keeping appropriate for confidential documents and not allow others to view the documents.
- At the approved date, time, and location, the Proctor will administer the exam to the Member according to
Exam Instructions for an Individual Exam and
Proctor Instructions. The Proctor will assure that the Test Location
maintains an environment suitable for conducting the exam. The Proctor is to actively monitor the examinee during the exam.
- After completion of the exam, the Proctor will immediately gather and account for all documents. The documents will
be immediately placed and sealed in an envelope, which will be mailed to the HSCG within one business day after the exam.
This mailing is done at the expense of the Member. The Proctor will not reproduce, copy, or retain documents in any manner.
- The HSCG will grade the exam and notify the Member, via email, of their grade within 7 days of receipt of exam.
Certificates will be mailed within 14 days of receipt of exam.
- Cancellations for examinees received by HSCG up to 10 days before the exam will be refunded their HSCG registration
fee minus 25%. Cancellations for examinees received by HSCG up to 3 days before the exam will be refunded their HSCG
registration fee minus 50%. Cancellations received by HSCG within 3 days of the exam will not receive a refund of their
registration fee.
- If the exam cannot be given on the agreed upon date, with the approved Proctor and Test Location, the HSCG is to be
immediately notified by the Member in order to reevaluate the situation.
